Activity stream for Brendan Heywood, configured from their own events. Events include discussions, updates and ticks.
Kurt Doherty, Niko Eltarenko, Paul Thomson, Rob Medlicott, Brendan Heywood, Blue Mountains Orangutan, Brendon Flanagan, Matt Brooks, Adrian Kladnig, Peter Monks, Nicky, Matt Minus, Jack Folkes, Leith and Eugene Mak deleted 3 messages at 22 ★★★ Clocks 10m, 5. • about a day ago
A fantastic steep cave, but can quite often be full of water. Possibly a drought only boulder.
Changed area type from 'boulder' to 'area'. — Changed name from 'Humpty Dumpty Boulder' name 'Humpty Dumpty area'.
Start in the chip and then traverse around the nose finishing on the slopey crimps. A worthy and fun problem in its own right without the hard finish.
Added route grade 'V2'.
Lie down start deep inside
|31 Aug 2020||First ascent: Benji Dutaillis|
Added personal grade contribution 'V6 ***'. — Changed route grade from 'V6-9 ***' to 'V6 ***'.
V1 ★★★ huge rail 5m — Classic
V0 ★★★ left jug rail 6m — Classic
V3 ★★ The jaws of death 4m — Sun 12th Nov 2006 — Good
The most scary send I have had in ages - WOOHOO!!
Step up on rocks that you don't want to fall on, jump to the nice jug (if you are a short arse like me), a little left crimp, then match your right foot to your hand and rock over and up.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/brendan_heywood/296273351/in/photostream/ — with Mark,Alex,Liam Jackson,Leon
18 ★★★ Innocence 25m, 5 — Sat 2nd May 2009 — Classic — with Hamish Caddy.
A superbly featured highball wall with a small selection of instant classics
Changed name from 'Tall Arete' name 'Dan's arete'.
|2008||First ascent: Dan Honeyman|
V4 ★★ Gift of the Gab 3m — Very Good
V4-5 finishing on the RH side. Took me a long time figuring out the beta to squeeze off those low side-pulls. Humped the arete for finesse.
V9 ★★★ Remember to Forget — Classic
V12 ★★★ Time's Up 5m — Classic
Unknown area somewhere near Armidale, mentioned in Screamer mag 10, Jul-Dec 1981. The closest Doctors Creek I can find is near Narrabri
Added registered child 'Doctors Creek'.
18 ★★★ Flight of the Phoenix 330m — Classic
We arrived at Balor close to midnight the night before so had a slightly relaxed start. Finding the start seemed fairly ok and I started climbing at 11. I was feeling rusty so let Ben have the first two money pitches, which mean I ended up spending a lot of time chilling out literally while he went on a wild off-route-finding spree. By the time I joined Ben at the rap it was 2:30 and I'd ended up aiding some moves through the mystery pitons and was deep in type II fun: some combination of too cold / too hot / dehydrated / wind chill / cramping badly. We did discuss bailing from the rap but we forged on prepared to climb at night and I estimated it would be a midnight finish. After a couple pitches the type II fun gradually eased back into type I fun. I "led" the top pitch just so I could say I actually placed a single piece of gear somewhere. As we scrambled over the lip we met hectic arctic winds off the summit. I arrived back at Balor on the dot of midnight Best summarized as we had a 'choose your own adventure'. — with Ben Vincent
16 ★★★ Lieder 260m — Very Good
After a good rest day we were much better prepped and had a proper alpine start for this. Had a tourist chopper buzz us at some point. On the start of the 3rd pitch stemming over the mini waterfall my foot blew on dodgy rock and I tumbled about 5m back to the belay. In hind sight it is probably the worst fall I've ever had but luckily I was barely hurt with just a bruised forearm which has yellowed up nicely since. 'With care' is an understatement of the start of pitch 3. Pitch 5 has a fantastic airy crux and is the jewel in this route. We topped out with plenty of light and back on the ground at dusk, then hoofed it back to the car and home — with Ben Vincent
17 ★★★ Lieder 270m — Mega Classic
A very memorable route. Thought it'd be nice to get on and have a nice easy, airy wander up a grade 16.... not quite. A committing route for the grade with sections of sparse protection, moist or loose rock and some really neat exposure. The two grassy ledges were great for a half-height picnic and it was nice to sort out the mess of a description for the end of the 3rd pitch. Skippy took an exciting tumble/bounce down the waterfall face and was arrested by a #5 BD microwire after a good sized block decided it wanted to relocate itself. Really interesting, engaging climbing and totally up there with FOTP in my books. — with Brendan Heywood
18 ★★★ Flight of the Phoenix 290m — Mega Classic
What a day out. A late arival to camp had us at the base of FOTP by 10am. In hindsight the route is quite obvious. At the time, however, it was not. Traversed way too far left on P1 and belayed at the big obvious shrub below the corner with two pitons (probably SJ). This meant that we probably didn't even do FOTP P2 but wandered up past said pitons on some other route (probably SJ) and way over and above the P2 belay ledge. I wandered about in circles on the slab 20m above and L of the wing for an age and found a small belay ledge for some other route with an old rusty hex and a sling (likely LD). Down climbed to retrieve my sparse pro before using the corner of SJ do get back onto the ramp and finally located the tat down the R-hand end of the ramp - pretty obvious in hindsight. We probably didn't rap far enough on P3, but found some good med cam placements behind a large hanging block. P4 was great with good exposure. In fading light I took P5 too far up and R and clearly missed the orange rock swinging L. That meant P6 started below some hanging blocks but we spied the nose before sunset and knew where to finish. We got back on route in the dark halfway through this pitch and really enjoyed it and P7. Got back to Balor at 11:30pm and it was all totally worth it - 15.5 hours hut to hut, what a pair of Bungle newbs ;-) — with Brendan Heywood
Supposed to be quite
Good. If you want to suss out 'Lieben' before committing to it, this is the way to do it.
Start: About 50m up and right of the start of 'Cornerstone Rib' at base of rightward leading crack system. An obvious R tending traverse that leads toward base of gully beneath two Orange overhangs. This was where the famous photo of Dot Butler (bare footed and with a rope tied around her waste) was taken.
30m Easily up right. Belay level with or slightly higher than base of gully.
30m Right and into gully,up grey rock on right keeping left of
waterwashed rock until last unprotected 6m to avoid overhangs, then up
to an obvious large platform with a bolt.
33m Up and around right aret
te with care, continue up right to grassy ledge..still caring. A wiggly piton on belay confirms your on your way.
24m Up gully to
waterwashed crux protected by bolts (visible from belay) though adequate modern protection exists. Hard moves on great (sometimes wet) rock slightly left to belay just left and beneath chimney.
15m Engaging short face on left to Chimney type gully to a large chockstone.
18m Bridge up right then out to tree. This is the lowermost and largest of the teatrees in the vegetated gully, protruding over the cliff and most visible from ground. Its trunk is about 1m in diameter and it sprawls with vigour over the terrain you wish to cover at end of an otherwise very good pitch (or two).
70m Scramble to top on right side of vegetated gully.
25 ★ Sharp crimpy face 6m — Sun 2nd Aug 2020 — Classic
Guessing at the grade. I don't know if this felt hard because it was sharp or felt sharp because it was hard...either way it was freakin sweet! — with Brendan Heywood
18 ★★ The Eye Crack 15m — Sun 12th Apr 2020 — Very Good
Didn't link the crux on the first two attempts but got it third go. A good problem for my pre-winter rusty trad head. — with Benji Dutaillis
22 ★★ Most People I Know 15m — Sun 12th Apr 2020 — Very Good
Not having to worry about tricky gear placements and belaying and watching Benji work the crux moves no doubt went a long way... — with Benji Dutaillis
17 ★ Whale Ale 15m, 4 — Sun 12th Apr 2020 — Very Good
Such a different style to the stuff we were doing earlier in the day. — with Benji Dutaillis,Alex
16 ★★ Tui 15m, 5 — Sun 12th Apr 2020 — Very Good
Impressive to see Alex get up this after 2 years of no climbig — with Benji Dutaillis,Alex
V3 ★★ Shootout — Sun 12th Apr 2020 — Classic
Tricky slab before regaining some composure at the break and finishing up the bomber jams. 1 pad or 6 pads it's all the same I suspect....I'd give it a 3 but the damp slab may've added a bit.
★ Sharp crimpy face 6m — Sun 2nd Aug 2020 — Don't Bother
This thing was so sharp I could barely pull on while dogging it. This is NOT river rock! — with Ben Vincent
17 ★★ Your Anger Is A Gift — Sat 1st Aug 2020 — Good
Ben led this and we thought it was an FA. I pink pointed and my sequence was very different, I had a solid knee bar in from the first move (of course I did) and I felt very secure dragging that back step up the whole way until you can stand for the easy vertical crack part — with Ben Vincent
Originally named 'Handy'.
Changed name from 'Handy' name 'No glove, no love'.
Fun easy hand crack traverse