Routes in El Chalten

The diehedral at the left end of the wall

Starts at overhung arete

Starts on wall just right of S

2m left of corner

The prominent dihedral seen from the national park office. Finishes at piton anchor.

im R of corner up past pitons in seam. Then up thin crack

Start up chimner and step lft onto thin face. Technical moves to ledge then more easily up slightly overhanging arete

1m R of EP, up thin face and finger crack.

2m R again

1m right , up crack to start. Doesnt look dirty. On same wall as preceding 3 routes

Up a short face, but mainly climbs R arete before moving left near top.

Starts just left of a short overhung corner. Up thin face to horizontal. Weave way up wall on line of least resistance. Escapable in parts and quite run out.

About 40m right and up hill are 2 steep routes. This one is no longer a project but not sure of name. Start up gully

The right of the routes starting in gully. ROck looks quite average

Go carefully to first bolt which is about 5m up. Run out slab climbing on average quality rock. Starts around corner and up hill from gully

Starts from same stance as VN and goes right up arete. Friable rock detracts from nice moves.

Immediately above the bridge there is a routel that starts on white pockets and goes into a L facing corner and later heads out a large roof. Pitch 1: (6a) Up white wall with multiple large huecos into R leaning corner/ ramp. Climb past first set of anchor bolts to anchors at base of arete. Pitch 2 (crux): Up face and right to arete. Belay on ledge atchain anchor. Pitch 3: (6a) Up arete to open corner, trending left to under roof Pitch 4: (5+) Up the right along ledge. Under right side of roof traverse right to belay Pitch 5: (5) Step left into corner and up to anchor. Rappel from here or continue scrambling up and left to plateau and go left to descent gully

Known locally as "the easiest rock climb in El Chalten", at least, it is the easiest multi-pitch. Has been climbed in winter with ice axes and crampons.

From the wooden bridge walk south towards the old orange bridge/flying fox thing. Take first small branch trail you come to, just before the orange flying fox, the track leads to a massive boulder field from significant rockfall, the climb starts just up and right from the debris field.

The climb is recognisable by the large smooth slab comprising the top third which has a right trending diagonal crack with a belay cave half-way.

Apparently no harder than 6a.

To descend, from the final anchor, walk north along the ledge for a few metres to a rap station. It would be awkward to abseil from the final anchor and hit the previous belay due to the diagonal nature of that pitch.

Directly opposite Hosteria Vertical Lodge. From wooden bridge, walk south ~100m past the old orange bridge structure, then a bit further and head up hill. All belays have rings for abseiling. Rock quality is poor in spots but no worse than any other route on this wall.

6 pitches:

1. 25m, 5 bolts, Straight up easy slabs

2. 25m, 5 bolts, Trending left around bulge

3. 30m, 8 bolts, Easy scramble up and right past 2 or 3 bolts and scree, climb short face (3rd bolt on face hidden), then trend left to sloping ledge and belay.

4. 30m, 12 bolts, Straight up steep wall, 1st bolt heads left but easier ground right, then right-facing corner and awkward mantle on to sloping ledge, followed by another right-facing corner and mantle.

5. 15m, 5 bolts, Ridiculous horizontal traverse.

6. Crux, 20m, 8 bolts, Straight up, then up steep wall with pockets.

Descent Options:

1. Walk-off. Still need rope to climb above final anchor, then walk left ~200m to walk-down gully.

2. Abseil, very awkward to hit 4th belay on abseil due to the horizontal traverse. Then abseil ~53m to 2nd belay and ~40m to ground.

3. Alternatively, abseil to 5th belay, then ~50m to 1m dirt ledge where you can carefully walk across to 2nd belay. ~40m to the ground from 2nd belay.

As for previous route, but heads straight up from the fifth belay for a moderate slab pitch with some poxy rock up high.

Climbs the prominent white tower opposite Hosteria Vertical Lodge, about ~200m south of the wooden bridge. (it looks like a coke bottle)

1. 6a

2. 5+

3. 6a+

4. 5

16m up and left of fence post, diagonal staircase up and right past 6 bolts to shared lower-off.

Awkward to abseil and clean the route as it wanders ~8m sideways, easiest for 2nd to top-rope and clean.

Start 8m up and left from fence post at left end of main wall. 7 bolts to shared lower-off, crux is bolt 6 - 7.

Just to the left of the fence posts at overhung corner, only anchor bolts for TR

Start at fence post at left end of main wall. Up past 10 bolts. Crux is getting past the 9th bolt. Previously "Top Rope Problem 2".

3m right of fence post (at left end of main wall), starting at a triangular ledge at head height. Up past 9 bolts to lower-offs.

Start 6m right of fence post (at left end of main wall), just right of low roof at wide crack/chimney. Chimney up to 2nd bolt, crux through overlap to 3rd bolt, then more easily to anchors. Middle-third is sandy with broken rock.

8m right of fence post (at left end of main wall). Start at dihedral, up and out to 2nd bolt on face, easy slabbing until finish above scoop (protected by 9th bolt).

Diagonal right crack and ramp. Start 5m right of "Main Wall Bolted 4" past bush and crack/groove. Crux is between first 2 bolts with side clings either side. Awkward to clean the route as it wanders ~6m right to shared lower-offs.

Start at seam into right leaning flake. Option to lower-off at ~9m, or continue to shared lower-offs 2 bolts higher. 2m of dirt erosion at cliff base has made the start harder and put the first bolt about 5m above the ground with tricky moves.

At far right of main wall, up slightly overhung hand and finger crack, then left-ish to shared lower-offs.Probably harder start now given the 2m of dirt erosion at cliff base. First bolt is ~5m up. Black Diamond 0.5 or 0.75 cam useful to protect the heinous start.

Starts just to right of main wall up on 1m dirt ledge. Start up right facing corner past 2 bolts on left wall, then transition to right face past 2 bolts to shared lower-off.

Right of main wall up on 1m dirt ledge. Climb the middle of slab past 6 bolts. Scramble 4m to large ledge and first bolt (redundant) at knee height, then nice side cling moves from bolt 2 to 3. Easy to top.

the uppermost route, starting at prominent overlaps

start at corner, heading up and into overhanging crack

The left most route on the ledge with multiple white huecoes. Up and trend left past enuous block to steep juggy finish

1m right, up pockets through 2 bulges to finish up pocketed groove

1m right at diagonal ramp to start, comes close to pocketed ladder and hard to stay out of this. Finishes up arete and shares anchors with route to right.

same start as route to left but heads right at about 5th bolt to tricky move through bulge and then a groove before back to shared anchors

the left route on white slab at top of middle terrace. Finish at shared anchors at base of upper terrace.

1m right on pocketed slab wall to shared anchors

Climb delicate in the lower part with a cruxy move after the terrace

Up grungy corner to traverse across hanging slab the up pockets to overhanging black rock and pump it out to anchors

Crag classic- up steep pocketed arete

Shorter and a bit more power demanding than La Burbuja

Up white wall into overhanging hand crack then hardish moves on wall above

1m to right of handcrack up overhanging wall on small looking holds

The uphill route on the lower terrace through overlapping reddish slabs

2m right and downhill, longer and more sustained