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Created about a year ago
14

Seasonality

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Description

The 150m high wall across the river on the Eastern side of El Chalten.

Approach

Use the bridge which brings you to the northern end of the wall

Descent notes

Rappel the routes, or if windy there is a walk down track on the north (Fitzroy) side. Walk across the rocky plateau and look out for cairns to get onto a well trodden tack that finishes close to the bridge.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 6c
2 6b+
3 6b+
4 6b+
5 ?
1 6a
2 6b
3 6a
4 5+
5 5

Immediately above the bridge there is a routel that starts on white pockets and goes into a L facing corner and later heads out a large roof. Pitch 1: (6a) Up white wall with multiple large huecos into R leaning corner/ ramp. Climb past first set of anchor bolts to anchors at base of arete. Pitch 2 (crux): Up face and right to arete. Belay on ledge atchain anchor. Pitch 3: (6a) Up arete to open corner, trending left to under roof Pitch 4: (5+) Up the right along ledge. Under right side of roof traverse right to belay Pitch 5: (5) Step left into corner and up to anchor. Rappel from here or continue scrambling up and left to plateau and go left to descent gully

1 6c
2 6b
3 6b
4 6b
5 6a+
1 6b+
2 6a
3 6c
4 7c

Known locally as "the easiest rock climb in El Chalten", at least, it is the easiest multi-pitch. Has been climbed in winter with ice axes and crampons.

From the wooden bridge walk south towards the old orange bridge/flying fox thing. Take first small branch trail you come to, just before the orange flying fox, the track leads to a massive boulder field from significant rockfall, the climb starts just up and right from the debris field.

The climb is recognisable by the large smooth slab comprising the top third which has a right trending diagonal crack with a belay cave half-way.

Apparently no harder than 6a.

To descend, from the final anchor, walk north along the ledge for a few metres to a rap station. It would be awkward to abseil from the final anchor and hit the previous belay due to the diagonal nature of that pitch.

Set: Alberto Del Castillo, Oscar Pandolfi & Marcelo Pagani

Directly opposite Hosteria Vertical Lodge. From wooden bridge, walk south ~100m past the old orange bridge structure, then a bit further and head up hill. All belays have rings for abseiling. Rock quality is poor in spots but no worse than any other route on this wall.

6 pitches:

  1. 25m, 5 bolts, Straight up easy slabs

  2. 25m, 5 bolts, Trending left around bulge

  3. 30m, 8 bolts, Easy scramble up and right past 2 or 3 bolts and scree, climb short face (3rd bolt on face hidden), then trend left to sloping ledge and belay.

  4. 30m, 12 bolts, Straight up steep wall, 1st bolt heads left but easier ground right, then right-facing corner and awkward mantle on to sloping ledge, followed by another right-facing corner and mantle.

  5. 15m, 5 bolts, Ridiculous horizontal traverse.

  6. Crux, 20m, 8 bolts, Straight up, then up steep wall with pockets.

Descent Options:

  1. Walk-off. Still need rope to climb above final anchor, then walk left ~200m to walk-down gully.

  2. Abseil, very awkward to hit 4th belay on abseil due to the horizontal traverse. Then abseil ~53m to 2nd belay and ~40m to ground.

  3. Alternatively, abseil to 5th belay, then ~50m to 1m dirt ledge where you can carefully walk across to 2nd belay. ~40m to the ground from 2nd belay.

Set: Juan Manuel Raselli & Roberto Treu

As for previous route, but heads straight up from the fifth belay for a moderate slab pitch with some poxy rock up high.

1 6a+
2 6b
3 6b+
4 5+
5 6b+

Climbs the prominent white tower opposite Hosteria Vertical Lodge, about ~200m south of the wooden bridge. (it looks like a coke bottle)

Set: Manuel Quiroga & Chalten Mountain Guides, 2009

1 7b
2 7a
3 6a
4 6a+
5 6b
1 6b
2 7a
3 6a+
4 6a
5 6b+

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