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West Face

15

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Description

Area with the most classics.

Approach

Skirt around the west side of the bottom of the dome and head down low angled spur to large boulders near the base.

Routes

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Grade Route

Face climbing with runouts. Limited natural protection with medium sized cams.

FFA: G. Brysland & I. Arnaud, 1992

Start at 5m high split block for two pitch adventure. Bolts require hangers Pitch 1 50m: up split and follow quartz vein past two bolts to left trending groove. Follow groove to a small hole followed by easier climbing to double bolt belay. Pitch 2: Scramble to top.

FFA: D. Wagland, R. Tyson & M. Dalziel, 1992

A bold climb with long runouts and big reaches. Goes up middle of west face. Bolts require hangers.

Pitch 1 (22) 23m: Climb obvious left trending crack, climbing past small cave to large bulge. Clip bolt and follow flakes to next bolt and crux to belay ledge (needs nuts and cams).

Pitch 2 (19) 20m: 10 m runout from belay to 'dinnerplate flake'. Pull up to bolt to double bolt belay (needs hangers).

Pitch 3 (7) 27m: Scramble to summit

FFA: R. Muhlen-Schulte & D. Wagland, 1990

From the top of the first pitch of Baylac Direct continue left up the line of bolts rather than up the right trending crack.

Regarded as one of the best crack pitches in WA, good value at the grade.

Pitch 1 (18) 33m: Up short crack to horizontal break. Enter finger crack and enjoy the climb to the belay ledge.

Pitch 2 (16) 23m: Up short corner to easy ramp to block and belay on right below the summit dome.

Pitch 3 (15) 40m: Committing slab climbing protected by small wires up to summit

FFA: R. Skirrow & M. Smith, 1981

Unidentified climb. Description coincides with an off-width considerably harder than 17.

Between Baylec Direct and Albatross, there is a chimney area with two ugly looking corner cracks. Climb the right crack up to some nice jams, and continue to where it gets narrow and crosses left to first belay anchors of Baylec Direct. Gobbles up medium cams.

Fantastic climbing on great rock in a great position. Originally climbed by A. Roilo and K. Bennet in 1992 using the aid of a knotted static rope for protection! Freed by Aikman and Truscott in 1998, sans bolts. Bolts added in 2010.

(1) 20m 19: Start up right trending crack as for Albatross, then after 3m climb vertical crack. Continue past 2 bolts and belay of gear on right end of ledge. (2) 20m 20: Up short crack above belay, then step left into another crack and climb right leading ramp. Continue up headwall past 4 RB's, over overlap to belay on on blocky ledge (same as Albatross). (3) 40m 15: Same as Albatross

FA: A. Roilo & K. Bennet, 1992

FFA: B. Aikman & J. Truscott, 1998

Set by M. Thake & A. Roilo, 11 Nov 2010

One of the best routes in WA for its grade.

Pitch 1 (15) 42m: Bridge out right from edge of terrace into ramp/crack system. Climb blank wall to ledge and continue up to a sloping belay ledge.

Pitch 2 (15) 23m: Continue up cracks and layback the left most crack to an off-width chimney that goes up to pinnacle belay (shared belay for Baylec Direct).

Pitch 3 (15) 40m: Finish as Baylac Direct

FFA: R. Rathbone & P. Woods, 1978

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