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All Time Boulder

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 6

Seasonality

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Description

Home to the crag test piece: All Time Compression Problem.

Access issues inherited from Mutton Bird

Respect the rock and natural environment you are climbing in. Clean your rubbish up and give tick marks and caked chalk a good scrubbing.

Ethic inherited from Mutton Bird

Clean tick marks and caked chalk. Clean up your rubbish. No chipping, gluing or bolting.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start. Up the tall, but secure, crack system.

The slab on the left side of the All Time boulder. Tricky and tall.

FA: Dave Mcnamara, 1998

Sit start compressing the boulder. Climb a ~V8/9 compression sequence into the V11 stand start. Awesome, sustained climbing.

Adds a move into the 'crouch' starting with the right hand dish and slightly higher left hand originally opened by legendary Andy Lampard. https://vimeo.com/264036730

FA: Will Atkinson, Dec 2017

The stand start. Left hand on sloper and right down low on a positive dimple. Chuck a left heel hook and squeeze your way up with powerful moves. Hard V11. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YXrt1WlZKA

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start low in the obvious layback seam, big move out right to the jug then jug it up for the easy top out. The jugs up high have since torn off and the problem has now been done again with the new, slightly harder, topout by Davide Cora as of Jan 2018.

https://youtu.be/J-z27-wcP14

FA: Andy Lampard

Stand start. Up the obvious prow. Crux is up high. https://vimeo.com/264169521

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start on the jutting feature and then up the arete then trend left through sloper and jug.

FA: Andy Lampard

Probably been done before?

Arete may be possible?

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Activity

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