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Junior Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 80

Seasonality

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Description

Boulder cluster past the ridge.

Access issues inherited from Mutton Bird

Respect the rock and natural environment you are climbing in. Clean your rubbish up and give tick marks and caked chalk a good scrubbing.

Ethic inherited from Mutton Bird

Clean tick marks and caked chalk. Clean up your rubbish. No chipping, gluing or bolting.

Routes

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Grade Route

Stand start with the jug, straight up

FA: Jim Nevin, 1984

Sit start on the obvious slopey feature with a left heel. Tricky moves up and right to gain the lip.

Sit start with undercling jug. Up the easy slab. Good bit of fun.

Fantastic easier classic. Sit start low in scoops under the roof and move straight out of the steep with underclings and flowy sequences. Top out up the slab.

Great value.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNw-xEvGhSQ

FA: Shania Peters, 2020

Sit start under the obvious bulge and slap up to a tricky top. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J99eKvvY9oU

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start on the diagonal hold on the right. Up on sharp but positive holds.

Left hand pocket, right hand undercling, launch.

Stand start on the undercling, smear feet and bust up to the flakes. Tricky part is the start.

As for Underclings but instead of topping out to the right, do a long move to the left and finish up the middle of the boulder.

Sit start then up the jugs/underclings.

FA: 2001

Juggy sit start. Fun one for the kids.

Sit start with jugs then press up for the lip. Can add a couple of moves starting further right...

Sit start, then tricky moves to gain the high break (avoid dabbing the rocks to the left).

Sit start with jugs. Avoid rocks underneath. A bit awkward. Top out on the slab

Sit start. Follow the crack system up. Dodgy landing but the moves aren't too hard.

Crouch start matched on the jug undercling. Couple of powerful moves. Avoid the right elbow dab on the back boulder! https://youtu.be/HcMGlrhMkdA?t=60

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start on the undercling edge then up and left. Powerful first move to the undercling jug. V9??

Stand start and slab it up. Can be done using just the left arete (slightly harder) for extra style points.

FA: Jim Nevin, 2002

Stand start on obvious jugs on the right arete. Optional morpho direct sitter.

FA: Jim Nevin, 1992

Sit start on crimps, then traverse right on underclings into the jugs on the right arete to top out as 'Fun'

FA: Dave Mcnamara, 1998

Sit start on crimps, then into the under clings then straight up to the top.

Sit start. https://youtu.be/KwLzohGPYeQ

FA: Ronald Master

Up the easy slab

FA: Jim Nevin, 1983

Run at the slab to gain the high flake then straight up to finish.

Slab on the left.

Stand start wide with good left hand and right hand on poor slopey features. Stretch out those legs and jam a right heel to cross over to the good holds up high and top out. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bpz1wIIBJSe/

The right heel hook hold has since been broken

FA: Thomas Farrell, 2019

Start left hand on the arete and right hand on top jug. Traverse along the crackline, using top jugs, to a top out on the right.

FA: Jan-Michael Vincent

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Activity

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