Routes as trad in Peak Head

Up prominent crack which thins to pinky finger locks. When fingers displace the gear, follow the three bolts to the top. Classic moves and holds just where you need them. Single rack down to very small gear required (blue alien). In the upper section it feels like you can fall off any move.

Belay at your abseil anchor (bolt and trad)

Starts 2m right of One Move Away/Blue Tipple. Up easy angled crack, aiming for the wide corner. Bomber butterfly’s and some apprehension will take you to the final wide corner. Offwidth or layback as you see fit and flop onto the ledge. Don’t forget your big green #6 camalot. Great fun. Standard rack plus at least one BIG cam.

Shares anchor/belay with One Move Away / Blue Tipple.

10m right of Big Greeny. Varied and steep crack climbing. Very un-West Australian like. Romp up the cracks and flakes to the steep bulge. Pump up those forearms for the steep bit and grab your gold medal from the victory jug. Natural belay on ledge using blocks etc further back

The last line before the Discovery Chimney which is the southern boundary of the slabs. All Bolted. Climbs through a small overlap aiming for the lovely golden flake. Crux passing the 2nd bolt will be tricky to onsight. Preplacing the draw on abseil will assist. After that the climbing is as good as it looks! Lovely orange rock, jugs and a Fontainebleau top out. 2 bolt belay in blocky cleft above the route, bolt plates required.

A pleasant enough though slightly crumbly chimney between the block and the west slabs. The chimney is mostly an exercise in spartan antics over huge chock stones. Hardly any stemming. You can finish by burrowing under the capping block or exciting stemming up and right to escape the chimney. Trad belay anchor.

Fantastic, steep and exposed climbing out to and up an arete above the thrashing southern ocean. Starts at the base of Discovery Chimney. Stem up and clip the first bolt, then climb up past a second bolt to huge flakes. Chuck in some gear and head right to an outrageous perch on a hanging flake. Suck in some air, clip the third bolt and pull the crux. Depending on how the sea, exposure and pounding of your heart has affected you, getting in the small gear post crux could be exciting. Follow the line of weakness to the top. 3 bolts and a standard rack (small cams to #2 camalot and wires). Trad belay anchor.

Starts just around the corner from Peak Exposure. It is recommended to abseil down the line and suss out the gear at the start. You can also access the base of the route by scrambling (CAREFULLY) across from the start of Peak Exposure / Discovery Corner. Gear and bolts. Trad belay anchor.

See 'South Coast Rock'

A route with a rich history! First soloed (!) by Scott Camps, then accidentally partly retro-bolted (See also The Runnel of Love)

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/five-new-pitches-at-gibraltar-rock/ https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-route-at-peak-head/

A route surrounded by controversy as to whether it constituted a retro bolting of the top half of "Woo Woo Woo". The retrobolted section of woo woo woo was chopped, making runnel of love obsolete. The remaining bolts shouldn't be trusted. A good one to top rope! Still some very interesting insights into climbing ethics:

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/five-new-pitches-at-gibraltar-rock/ https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-route-at-peak-head/

"Excellent face climbing on thin edges. Start 4m left of the Lizard of Oz at the base of the large tapered runnel at the left end of the west face. Climb the left edge of runnel past nine bolts (fixed hangers) to a dbb. Tim Ball and Ryan ?? Oct 2012"

Face climbing with runouts. Limited natural protection with medium sized cams.

Start at 5m high split block for two pitch adventure. Bolts require hangers Pitch 1 50m: up split and follow quartz vein past two bolts to left trending groove. Follow groove to a small hole followed by easier climbing to double bolt belay. Pitch 2: Scramble to top.

• DIAGONAL CRACK (65m, 18) This climbs follows the left-trending diagonal crack from its very beginning at the start of “White Witches on a Cross” to its end, then finishes straight up “Skysurfer”. Mostly good fun, with some slight awkwardness. (i) 25m, 16 Up the ramp/crack to belay on the bolt of “Layers of Grooviness” located 2m above the ramp (fixed hanger). (ii) 40m, 18 Continue up the ramp to its left end (gr.16), #1 Camalot is essential here, then up past 2 bolts of “Skysurfer” to belay on the 3rd bolt you come across. (iii) Scramble for 20m to top and sling rope around boulder for belay. No new bolts were placed. Bring single set of cams up to #4 Camalot. FA: Ross Weiter, Pete Thomas, 18 April 2014.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/the-most-obvious-line-at-west-face-of-peak-head-falls-to-perth-raiders/

A bold climb with long runouts and big reaches. Goes up middle of west face. Bolts require hangers.

Pitch 1 (22) 23m: Climb obvious left trending crack, climbing past small cave to large bulge. Clip bolt and follow flakes to next bolt and crux to belay ledge (needs nuts and cams).

Pitch 2 (19) 20m: 10 m runout from belay to 'dinnerplate flake'. Pull up to bolt to double bolt belay (needs hangers).

Pitch 3 (7) 27m: Scramble to summit

From the top of the first pitch of Baylac Direct continue left up the line of bolts rather than up the right trending crack.

Regarded as one of the best crack pitches in WA, good value at the grade.

Pitch 1 (18) 33m: Up short crack to horizontal break. Enter finger crack and enjoy the climb to the belay ledge.

Pitch 2 (16) 23m: Up short corner to easy ramp to block and belay on right below the summit dome.

Pitch 3 (15) 40m: Committing slab climbing protected by small wires up to summit

The first route climbed at Peak Head. Up the crack to the right of Baylac, before joining Baylac Direct for P2 & P3

Between Baylec Direct and Albatross, there is a chimney area with two ugly looking corner cracks. Climb the right crack up to some nice jams, and continue to where it gets narrow and crosses left to first belay anchors of Baylec Direct. Gobbles up medium cams.

Fantastic climbing on great rock in a great position. Originally climbed by A. Roilo and K. Bennet in 1992 using the aid of a knotted static rope for protection! Freed by Aikman and Truscott in 1998, sans bolts. Bolts added in 2010.

(1) 20m 19: Start up right trending crack as for Albatross, then after 3m climb vertical crack. Continue past 2 bolts and belay of gear on right end of ledge. (2) 20m 20: Up short crack above belay, then step left into another crack and climb right leading ramp. Continue up headwall past 4 RB's, over overlap to belay on on blocky ledge (same as Albatross). (3) 40m 15: Same as Albatross

One of the best routes in WA for its grade.

Pitch 1 (14) 42m: Bridge out right from edge of terrace into ramp/crack system. Climb blank wall to ledge and continue up to a sloping belay ledge.

Pitch 2 (13) 23m: Continue up cracks and layback the left most crack to an off-width chimney that goes up to pinnacle belay (shared belay for Baylec Direct).

Pitch 3 (15) 40m: Finish as Baylac Direct.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-routes-gibraltar-rock/

On the 7th of August 2013, Tim ball and jodie hamilton made the first ascent of a classic slab/arête on the wall below the start of baylac and lucifers dream. Good anchor in a small horizontal on the big ledge, then rap straight down the arête at western end to a Hanging DBB on the edge of a large roof jutting out over the top of stirling terrace. Need hangers. Climb carefully out of belay up arête, crux is around the first bolt, then on past three more bolts back to ledge. GIB require large hangers to fit.

A memorable route in a spectacular position with some superb face and crack climbing.

(1) 23m 25: Step left from ledge and head up steepening face past 3 bolts. Go right after 3 bolt to reach crack, and climb crack until 2RBB is reached.

(2) 30m 20: Up face past 5 bolts to ledge. Head right up short corner to 2RBB on ledge.

(3) 27m 15: Step 2m left of belay and climb slab past 3 bolts and belay at boulders.

Starts at DBB between the first pitch of Mist-Defied and 2nd Pitch of Long Time Coming. Sustained face climbing past 4 bolts to overlap and then up right corner to DBB at ledge.

First ascentionist is not known. No red tape on the bolts were present as of 11 Nov 2018.

From 2RBB on left edge of ledge, abseil slightly rightwards, heading into the obvious wide crack.

(1) 33m 18: Climb crack up to the left leading bongo flake. Straight up face from here past a FH to ledge and 2RBB.

(2) 27m 15: Head left up slabs as for Long Time Coming.

(1) 30m 20: Climb cracks as for Mist-Defied, but instead of following flake, head straight up to end of crack. Continue on face past 2 FH to ledge and belay.

(2) 27m 15: Same as Long Time Coming.

Excellent face climbing up the centre of the South Face.

(1) 10m 21: Move right from 2RBB to climb feature passing 2 bolts to ledge. Walk a few meters right to 2RBB.

(2) 27m 25: The amazing face passing 6 RBs, to an unlikely crux move to reach short cracks. Follow these rightwards to belay in base of crack for Mist-Defied and Mist Opportunity.

(3) + (4): same as Mist-Defied and Mist Opportunity

A fantastic route with a mix of face and crack climbing.

(1) 30m 21: Balancy moves past first bolt to gain crack. Continue up crack until its end and clip bolt on face above and traverse left to another bolt. Gain scoop and run it out up the left trending, juggy weakness to RB and past final RB to ledge.

(2) 25m 15: Walk left on ledge and climb out as for Long Time Coming.

See links for description:

http://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/Transformer-Route-Topo.pdf

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/transformer-at-peak-head/

Bold line up middle of South Face. Start on left side of Stirling Terrace at shallow corner/crack about 10m left of obvious crack of On the Lee Side.

Pitch 1 (20) 24m: Climb shalllow crack/corner to small ledge then left across face to a thin crack and belay bellow arrowhead.

Pitch 2 (21) 40m: From arrowhead climb difficult moves to jugs and continue up corner and crack (watch for loose block around halfway). Belay in double cracks.

Pitch 3 (17) 38m: Continue for 20m to good ledge and finish on right side of corner with tree belay.

Pitch 1 (16) 30m: Up the crack to awkward ramp, over bulge to belay in groove.

Pitch 2 (15) 40m: Up groove into crack on right whaere flared chimney begins. Belay on bushy ledge

Pitch 3 (17) 40m: Head straight up wall climbing thin cracks. At ledge, step right to avoid blank groove. Clip bolt and continue up rounded holds and back left into groove to good cams. Continue to climb and exit left to long runout to tree belay.

(1) 40m 22: Start up crack as for Farewell to Arms, but at 4m step left onto face and bolt. Follow up to ledge and go left for 2m to vertical crack and good pro. Past great holds past 2 bolts and overlap. Blast up face past 7 bolts and 2RBB.

(2) 20m (19): Head up finger crack and right trending right crack to ledge and steep layback crack to another large ledge and 2RBB.

(3) 35m 23: Climb crack for On the Lee Side Direct until you can traverse left and clip bolt. Continue up past 3 bolts and run it out to alcove and belay.

Highlight, second pitch smooth flaring chimney.

Starts about 15-20m right of Farewell to Arms.

(1) 30m 23: Hard to reach first bolt, the move delicately diagonally right to reach welcome second bolt.Continue up line of bolts, using small cam/nut between 2nd and 3rd bolt, to reach 2RBB.

(2) 40m 21: Step left from belay and climb slab, passing 6 bolts and run out to ledge. Traverse left and climb short crack and reach large vegetated ledge and 2RBB.

(3) 30m 23: Climb steep corner crack and move right over bulge to reach good holds. Easily up face with good pro. Move left to clip bolt on the crux of On The Lee Side Direct, then up slab, past bolt and reach 2RBB. Scramble to top.

Originally an aid route graded at 20M1, now been freed at grade 23. A serious climb. Start at far right of Stirling Terrace bellow the layback crack.

(1) 45m 20: Up crack for 10m, then move left onto face. A long runout (6m at grade 19) leads to a horizontal band. Move left a few meters, then follow crack line to large ledge and belay.

(2) 45m 23: Up curving flake which becomes an undercling. Follow the faint crack (originally aided), then climb last 25m to widening crack.

On wall 4m to the right of Piglet. Good cam placement at rock feature a few meters up then through steepening face above. Easy slab to finish.