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description

This attractive face has an unfortunate history of ugly bolting efforts. Originally festooned with hangerless machine bolts, a recent rebolting effort turned it into a highly unfortunate example of what ringbolts look like when they're not properly recessed.

Start: Start beneath the appealing orange face, only a few metres R of the arbitrary end of 'Lois Lane Wall'.

  1. 22m (18) Straight up past 5 bolts, then follow the slight ramp up R (cams needed) to a lower-off where the arete meets the roof. The LHV (19) instead goes diagonally leftwards through the white rock to escape off left of the rooves.

  2. 20m (18) Not as good as pitch 1 and rarely done these days. Up steep wall on the R for 7m then L to arete and up.

© (willmonks)

Route history

Jun 1975First ascent: Mike Stone & Peter Watling
Jul 1977First ascent: (LHV Kevin Lindorff & Keith Egerton)

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76248, 141.84584

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

18 Assigned grade
18 * ACA Route Register
18 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
18 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 55 from 113 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 71
Flash 14
Red point 5
Tick 55
Target 5

Comment keywords

reachy traverse short interesting slabby balancy polished scary runout sustained hard lovely nice awesome good enjoyable

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