Help

description

You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version.

Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.

  1. 20m (23) Up corner to piton and continue stemming, after sustained bridging, to the big white blob of rock, hand traverse right past piton to belay stance and rap anchor. The loose LHV to this pitch goes L from the top of the corner to a ledge, back R over difficult bulge via shallow groove, then exits L.

  2. 20m (19) From ledge move back left and up corner crack to top, walk off.

© (bomber pro)

Route history

Oct 1966First ascent: Jim Newlands & John Bennett
21 Jul 1979First free ascent: Kim Carrigan (1st pitchand LHV 13/3/84), Glenn Tempest (2nd pitch & 8/76)

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76237, 141.84582

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

23 Assigned grade
23 [23 - 24] grAId
24 OZ Rock
24 RockGUIDE: Victoria
24 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
24 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
24 *** ACA Route Register

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 87 from 105 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 37
Flash 6
Red point 17
Tick 23
Pink point 7
Top rope 1
Attempt 39
Target 5

Comment keywords

beautiful super rad awesome exciting brilliant stoked good classic fun fantastic amazing nice great difficult crux sustained powerful hard tough pumped jugs hands steep easy traverse crack mantle bail roof feet bad rest technical layback bridging tricky fall scary dangerous

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity

Check out what is happening on Orestes (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文