John's Pinnacle




Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).


Easiest would be to climb 'Ali's', but you could also do any of the routes on 'Morfydd Wall', 'Bard Buttress' or 'Under Flinders Lane Wall' and then squeeze through Ali Babas Cave.


Descent notes

Abseil from ring bolts on N side.


Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU) © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)


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Grade Route

Tough crack R of arete to small roof at 4m. There's a BR on the lip and another up higher, it's wise to stick-clip the first.

Start: Start in the middle of the east face of the pinnacle (which looks over Ali's and Fang Buttress).

FA: Mark Moorhead & Dave Fearnley, 1982

As for H to BR then trend L to roof, BR on lip, then up middle of face with high BR.

Start: Start as for H.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

Up to BR then into crack which takes you R around the corner.

Start: Start at the arete just R of 'Allez'.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Ian Anger, 1980

Up the juggy wall.

Start: Start on the north face of John's pinnacle, close to 'Denim' Wall.

FA: John Fahey, Ted Batty, Chris Baxter, Bob Bull & Peter Jackson, 1965

Stick clip bolt, veer R, then back L. Apparently has a fragile undercling.

Start: Start on the west face of the Pinnacle.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Up S for 4m, then traverse L to brief ramp (BR). Up middle of black wall.

Start: Start as for S.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1986

Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

Start: Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967

Small roof to stance then L and up a grey streak just R of 'Shoadee'.

Start: Start down R of 'Shoadee'.

FA: Jon Muir & solo, 1985

Start at the large flake topped with sharp, broken rock, a few metres down from the start of Shoadee. The difficulties ease soon after pulling through the steepness, then trend slightly right to join the corner of Shalimar.

It seems unlikely that this route wasn't done earlier, but the only route written up in the vicinity that I can find is "Let Me Cry" (graded 25X).

FA: benwiessner & John Mader, 8 Apr 2018

Tough start then veer L into a short groove which is just L of the centre of the face. Finish R.

Start: Start 1.5m L of the SE arete (i.e., start 3.5m L of Allez).

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967

Straight up to the overhangs highest point. From ledge finish up juggy wall. No pro.

Start: 'Arete' 2m right of 'Nostalgia'.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

From the ground climb up to thin R leaning and L facing flake and continue up to ledge. from this join groove which is shared with 'Shalimar' and finish up left. Spaced wires.

Start: Start 4m left of 'Let Me Cry'.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

Start: \"Start variant 2m right left of 'Let Me Cry'\" - whatever that means!

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998


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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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