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Routes in John's Pinnacle

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Showing all 14 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
24 Allez

Start in the middle of the east face of the pinnacle (which looks over Ali's and Fang Buttress). Tough crack R of arete to small roof at 4m. There's a RB on the lip and another up higher, it's wise to stick-clip the first.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Dave Fearnley, 1982

Mixed trad 25m, 3
26 Atomic Fusion

As for H to BR then trend L to roof, BR on lip, then up middle of face with high BR.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

Mixed trad 25m, 3
23 Homegrown

Start at the arete just R of Allez. Up to BR then into crack which takes you R around the corner.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Ian Anger, 1980

Mixed trad 25m, 1
4 Flappers' Delight

Up the juggy wall on the north face of John's pinnacle, close to Denim Wall. Bad pro and rock but if that doesn't put you off at this grade then it's a nice summit to bag.

FA: John Fahey, Ted Batty, Chris Baxter, Bob Bull & Peter Jackson, 1965

Trad 16m
23 Nostalgia

Start on the west face of the pinnacle. Stick clip bolt, veer R, then back L. Apparently has a fragile undercling.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Mixed trad 20m, 1
25 X I'll Nail You

Arete 2m R of Nostalgia. Straight up to the overhang's highest point. From ledge finish up juggy wall. No pro.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

Trad 17m
23 Piggy in the Middle

Up Shoadee for 4m, then traverse L to brief ramp (BR). Up middle of black wall.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1986

Mixed trad 27m, 1
14 Shoadee

Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle. Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967

Trad 24m
25 X Let Me Cry

Start down R of Shoadee. Small roof to stance then L and up a grey streak just R of Shoadee.

FA: Jon Muir & solo, 1985

Trad 30m
20 Shalimar Direct Start

Start at the large flake topped with sharp, broken rock, a few metres down from the start of Shoadee. The difficulties ease soon after pulling through the steepness, then trend slightly right to join the corner of Shalimar.

It seems unlikely that this route wasn't done earlier, but the only route written up in the vicinity that I can find is "Let Me Cry" (graded 25X).

FA: benwiessner & John Mader, 8 Apr 2018

Trad
18 Shalimar

Start 1.5m L of the SE arete (i.e., start 3.5m L of Allez). Tough start then veer L into a short groove which is just L of the centre of the face. Finish R.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967

Trad 31m
18 Shanghai

Start and finish as for Shalimar, but climb the R arete of the face (just L of Allez).

Trad 30m
24 R The Invisible Hand

Start 4m L of Let Me Cry. From the ground climb up to thin R leaning and L facing flake and continue up to ledge. from this join groove which is shared with Shalimar and finish up left. Spaced wires.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

Trad 26m
23 R Handle with Care

"Start variant 2m right left of Let Me Cry" - whatever that means!

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

Trad 8m

Showing all 14 routes.

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