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Description

The cliff between Brick Wall and Moby Dick Pinnacle.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles,Central Gully Left Side Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Descent is by way of a rap anchor at the right end of the wall, just L of the top of the 'Dylan' chimney. When walking from the top of the leftmost few routes, be careful of the exposed section above Jason.

© (koala)

Descent notes

Rap anchor at the R end of the wall, L of the top of Dylan's chimney

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Wall to bushy ledge, thin black crack, wall.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Pedro'.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1984

Start as for Sue's Climb, take the flake into Pedro for a metre, then head L on the next steep blocky flake. Up wall and through bulge to join Pedro's finish. All reasonably well protected except the initial R leaning flake - take small wires.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Jed, 2013

Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready.

Start: Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start).

FA: Mike Stone, Ted Batty & Peter Jackson, 1965

Left of Jason and climb buttress on good wires.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1975

FA: Direct Start (20) Michael Woodrow, 1991

Surprisingly not as good as the original. Start as for BP and go L 1m as for that route then straight up to join the finish of Jason.

FA: Unknown

Boulder the start...

FA: Michael Woodrow, 1991

Regularly recommended to those who can't jam.

Start: Start 3m R of P.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger & Peter Jackson, 1966

Up 'Jason' then R along traverse line to 'Mind Games'. Up MG for 4m, including it's crux, then further R to groove.

Start: Start as for 'Jason'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979

A really good route, and definitely one of the most pleasant routes at the grade at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Start 3m R of J.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter McKeand, 1969

FFA: Roland Pauligk eliminated the rest in., 1974

If you enjoyed Golden Fleece, you want to do this too. A little bit more tricky.

Start: Start 1m R of GF.

FA: John Smart & John Smoothy, 1979

Up MG for 4m, then step 1m L to take faint groove straight up.

Start: Start as for MG.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Nicky Sunderland, 1993

Up past horizontal, then the groove, and head R after bulge.

Start: Start 6m R of J.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1978

The seam, then join the finish of 'Beautiful Loser'.

Start: Start 3m R of MG.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

The incipient corner/flake has a scary start. (Jug and gear block has come off (26/11/16), now harder and less pro.)

Start: Start just L of D.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976

Start: There are 3 short chimneys at the R end of the wall. This is the left one.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Bryan Oates, 1966

The wall.

Start: Start just R of D.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1984

The middle chimney.

Start: Start 2m R of D.

FA: Bryan Oates & solo, 1966

The wall then the arete.

Start: Start around R of A.

FA: Chris Baxter & Brian Fish, 1984

This climb is up behind 'Golden Fleece Wall', starting up a gully of sorts directly behind the top of 'Dylan'.

FA: Hugh Sutton & Jonatha Hajos, 10 Oct 2008

Activity

Check out what is happening in Golden Fleece Wall.