A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran Douglas Hockly Campbell Gome Brendan Heywood Michael 'Wonderdog' Woodrow Ben Wright Nick Miguel Ducker Cliff Barnett John Pitcairn Mikie Bob
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
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Table of contents
- 1. Golden Fleece Wall 21 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Golden Fleece Wall 21 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.760367, 141.843910
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
description
The cliff between Brick Wall and Moby Dick Pinnacle.
Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles,Central Gully Left Side Area
access issues
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
approach
Descent is by way of a rap anchor at the right end of the wall, just L of the top of the 'Dylan' chimney. When walking from the top of the leftmost few routes, be careful of the exposed section above Jason.
descent notes
Rap anchor at the R end of the wall, L of the top of Dylan's chimney
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Sue's Climb
Wall to bushy ledge, thin black crack, wall. Start: Start 2m L of 'Pedro'. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1984 | 17 | 36m | |||||
2 |
★ Jed's Climb
Start as for Sue's Climb, take the flake into Pedro for a metre, then head L on the next steep blocky flake. Up wall and through bulge to join Pedro's finish. All reasonably well protected except the initial R leaning flake - take small wires. FA: Douglas Hockly & Jed, 2013 | 16 | 30m | |||||
3 |
★★ Pedro
Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready. Start: Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start). FA: Mike Stone, Ted Batty & Peter Jackson, 1965 | 11 | 36m | |||||
4 |
Beautiful Possibilities Direct Start
Boulder the start... FA: Michael Woodrow, 1991 | 20 | 36m | |||||
5 |
★★ Beautiful Possibilities
A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1975 | 15 | 30m | |||||
6 |
Horrible Realities
Surprisingly not as good as the original. Start as for BP and go L 1m as for that route then straight up to join the finish of Jason. FA: Unknown | 16 | 30m | |||||
7 |
★ Jason
Regularly recommended to those who can't jam. Start 3m right of Pedro. Layback and jam the water-washed corner, with technical moves L around the roof. FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger & Peter Jackson, 1966 | 16 | 30m | |||||
8 |
★ Beautiful Loser
Up 'Jason' then R along traverse line to 'Mind Games'. Up MG for 4m, including it's crux, then further R to groove. Start: Start as for 'Jason'. FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979 | 21 | 40m | |||||
9 |
★★ Golden Fleece
A really good route, and definitely one of the most pleasant routes at the grade at 'Arapiles'. Start 3m R of Jason. Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and uo thin line. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter McKeand, 1969 FFA: Roland Pauligk eliminated the rest in., 1974 | 18 | 35m | |||||
10 |
★★ Possibly Beautiful
If you enjoyed Golden Fleece, you want to do this too. A little bit more tricky. Start 1m R of Golden Fleece. Up the little pillar - or step into it after a move or two. Up the thin cracks to join GF at the ledge, then up and slightly right. FA: John Smart & John Smoothy, 1979 | 19 | 28m | |||||
11 |
★ Medea's Revenge
Start as for Mind Games. Up Mind Games for 4m, then step 1m L to take faint groove straight up. FA: Louise Shepherd & Nicky Sunderland, 1993 | 21 | 25m | |||||
12 |
★ Mind Games
Start 6m right of Jason. Up past horizontal, then the groove, and head R after bulge. The hanging block at the end of the crux sounds pretty hollow. FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1978 | 20 | 25m | |||||
13 |
Get Knotted
Start 3m right of Mind Games.The seam, then join the finish of 'Beautiful Loser'. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 24 | 25m | |||||
14 |
★ Nightlinger
The incipient corner/flake just left of Dylan has a scary start, especially since a key jug and gear block came off in 2016. FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976 | 21 R | 18m | |||||
15 |
Systems Of Escape
A contemporary classic, this traverse boldly avoids every single crux on the wall and is maybe the most contrived way to put a top rope on Squeakeasy. Follows the obvious traverse line from the ledge of Dylan all the way to the Squeakeasy chains. P1. Courageously set off from the ledge just under Dylan, methodically avoiding every hard move on the wall by traversing across the obvious line. Choose your own adventure getting from Jason to BP. Step across Pedro and belay on a good ledge underneath the tower of choss just left of Sue's climb. P2. Once recovered mentally, step left around the tower of choss, then head up a vegetated crack R of Pancho. Traverse into Quisling above its crux, before the open corner, through a dodgy roof. Up the corner, then L onto the ramp above the Squeakeasy crux. Fire it to the chains and bask in the glory of your mediocrity. FA: Nick Miguel Ducker & Mike De Marco, Jul 2021 | 18 | 60m, 2 | |||||
16 |
★ Dylan
There are 3 short chimneys at the righthand end of the wall. This is the left one and is surprisingly awkward. FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Bryan Oates, 1966 | 16 | 15m | |||||
17 |
Going to Sydney
The wall just right of Dylan. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1984 | 19 | 15m | |||||
18 |
Anteus
The middle chimney, starting 2m right of Dylan. FA: Bryan Oates & solo, 1966 | 4 | 12m | |||||
19 |
Fish Doubt
The wall then the arete, starting around right of Anteus. FA: Chris Baxter & Brian Fish, 1984 | 20 | 15m | |||||
20 |
Gobsmacking Dick
Start: This line is in a hanging gully right of 'Six and Out' (this is above Jason on Golden Fleece Wall) and takes the obvious crack on the right (facing in) wall. FA: Hoskins & Lattanzio, 1995 | 17 | 20m | |||||
21 |
Golden Nothing
Stronlgy suspect that this is a repeat of Gobsmacking Dick which was written up in the Operation Leo Area and described as in a hanging gully above Jason. Despite the inaccuracy, I think they're the same. This climb is up behind 'Golden Fleece Wall', starting up a gully of sorts directly behind the top of 'Dylan'. Chimney until the slab on the left wall is too far away then pull onto the right wall. Hand-crack to start, bulg, finger-crack and on to top. FA: Hugh Sutton & Jonatha Hajos, 2008 | 16 | 15m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
4 | Anteus | 12m | |||
11 | ★★ | Pedro | 36m | ||
15 | ★★ | Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ||
16 | ★ | Dylan | 15m | ||
Golden Nothing | 15m | ||||
Horrible Realities | 30m | ||||
★ | Jason | 30m | |||
★ | Jed's Climb | 30m | |||
17 | Gobsmacking Dick | 20m | |||
★ | Sue's Climb | 36m | |||
18 | ★★ | Golden Fleece | 35m | ||
Systems Of Escape | 60m, 2 | ||||
19 | Going to Sydney | 15m | |||
★★ | Possibly Beautiful | 28m | |||
20 | Beautiful Possibilities Direct Start | 36m | |||
Fish Doubt | 15m | ||||
★ | Mind Games | 25m | |||
21 | ★ | Beautiful Loser | 40m | ||
★ | Medea's Revenge | 25m | |||
21 R | ★ | Nightlinger | 18m | ||
24 | Get Knotted | 25m |