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Comic Strip Wall

14

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
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D

Description

The wall about 60m south of Colosseum Wall.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Colosseum Wall Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Approach

10 minutes walk from the camping ground.

Descent notes

Rap anchor in the middle of the wall or scramble off L for the routes from Sausage of the Century - Popeye.

Scramble off R for Asteroids and the routes to its right.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Bouldery start then move rightwards into the line.

Start at the vague line towards the L end of the wall.

FA: Jon Muir, Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1981

A pair of weaknesses lead to a bulge, which succumbs to a layback/mantle. Start just R of Sausage Of The Century.

FA: Mark Barnett & Rod Young, 1981

A miniscule direct middle to Oogie Boogie. Straight under the DRB anchor.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 2 Nov 2015

In the same vein as Je Suis Un Legend, links all the easiest bits of the existing routes to create a conceptual megaclassic. Unfortunately the climbing is only one star.

Start up Oogie Boogie, go diagonally right to join the top of Asteroids and finish up it. Up the slab (a touch runout) and right up the corner to finish. Its possible to keep traversing from the final corner/groove to the chains of Hyperspace Bypass (below top of cliff).

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 7 Oct 2015

Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

Steep jugs, crack, face. Start R of OB, just L of overhangs, beneath small flake on bulge.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981

Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

Start in V corner, soon moving left until under large jammed blocks. Pull through the bulge, then up vertical seam, then step up and left. Soon after, traverse left to the ledge with rap station.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981

Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

Starts at the same corner as for Popeye, then steps up and right to a higher V-corner. Pass the bulge using the big pockets, then higher to where the angle eases. From here you can either traverse far left (to 'The Wizard of Id' abseil station), or veer right up the dirty weakness (to 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' abseil station).

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1981

Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

Start right of Asteroids, head up to small V in overhang below bolts. Follow bolts through bulges, then 2 bolts trending right through head wall to shared anchor with 'Hyperspace Bypass'.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 17 Oct 2015

Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

Up short corner 2m right of 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' to bolts, then up right line of bolts in head wall, finishing left to shared anchor with VDF.

Shallow corner then R through bulges.

Start at bushes R of 'Asteroids'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1981

The orange flake start, bolted by peter stebbins. Doubtful it's been done.

The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes.

Start at short black flake 10m R of 'Hyperspace'. Flake to grey coloured RB, L to pockets (#4 friend), then R up flake to tough finish.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

The original start climbed a tree, which has since fallen down. Following this you needed to batman to a the bolt and start at the flake. An independent right hand start which goes free from the ground was later bolted and climbed.

Start at the next flake R of 'Letting Go'. Climb the edges up the face to the R, then layback with difficulty up weakness past another bolt. Originally given 24 with a rumour it was hard for the grade.

FA: Steve Howden, Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

FFA: Kevin Lindorff & Hywel Rowlands, 2018

Originally 26 in the best of Law sandbagging tradition. Quite good, and not particularly slimy. Reachy though, looks way harder below about 6' reach.

Start R of 'Failing New Romantic'. 2 bolts up the seam, step L, then finish past a couple of fixed wires.

FA: Mike Law & Paul Hoskins, 1982

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 25 Apr
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