Help

Intrepid Gully

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 73

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Intrepid Gully

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Gear is fiddly, take slings for jugs. You can go L above the roof into a small corner, or just straight up. Start on left arete of gully, right of the start of Vandal. Trend right up face, through bulge, then left and up steep wall.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Eddy Ozols, 1981

Start 2 metres right of Angry Penguins, up to small roof, up and right to jug on lip of another rooflet. Straight up.

Going straight up from the first roof is a variant top-roped from chains.

FA: Louise, Lincoln Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1988

Black and brittle but still good. Take a thin sling for one placement. Start about halfway along the left wall of the gully, about 5 metres right of Angry Penguins. Up vague crack to a good break. Traverse 2 metres left to sickle flake then hard moves up left to jugs.

FA: Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

Wall right of Epic Demic past bolts. Continue up Down And Out or traverse off either way.

FA: Lincoln & Louise Shepherd, 1988

A novelty girdle of the right wall with a jump in the tail. Start below the chockstones at the head of the gully. Up right wall to horizontal break and traverse right all the way to Opening and follow that to terrace. Jump the gap and go up to chains (or use Leasehold's chains).

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger & Greg Pritchard, 1992

Steep, wide crack on the right wall, deep in the gully. Poor protection without some really big cams.

FA: Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood, 1967

Dimpled grey wall 1 metre R of Intrepid past 2 bolts.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1988

Protection is just OK and rock is a bit fragile. Up the wall 3 metres right of Intrepid to break. Go over bulge at small, left-curving crack.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Ramp as for Opening then straight up groove to break. Step left and take thin crack through bulge right of Pick And Lose.

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd. Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey did an incomplete version of this in., 1981

Good for a hot day. Seem to remember that it is a bit pushy. Climb ramp 1 metre right of Pick And Lose then traverse right to below shallow overhanging corner just left of arete and up this corner.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Lincoln Shepherd, 1979

Right arete of Intrepid Gully. Now has a new glue-in U-bolt which requires stick-clipping. The Leasehold rap chains are just to your right on top.

FA: Lincoln, Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks & Phil Bigg, 1988

FFA: 2020

The slightly overhanging little wall down and R of the entrance to Intrepid Gully has three ring-bolts. It's quite technical but very short so boulderers will probably just highball it at V2!

Set: Glenn Tempest

FA: Glenn Tempest, Feb 2017

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Thu 20 Apr
Check out what is happening in Intrepid Gully.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文