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Superb hanging slabs, capped by a flowing curtain like roof system. Topo has been corrected.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Upper Curtain Wall Area

© (bomber pro)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park


Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

The far left hand route, barely grazes the edge of the wall before scurrying of left to an easy finish. However there is a rap anchor on the ledge near the first belay and it would make a good single pitch route.

Start: Start at the diagonal crack

  1. 32m (15) Up wall untill airy pedestal then follow flake above to ledge, belay here. Rap off if so desired (30 metres).

  2. 28m (15) Traverse left and scramble up to a terrace,

  3. 25m (15) Now up the corner right of Dantes Inferno (Censorship) but traverse right below overhang to avoid big block.

FA: Chris Dewhirst Chris Baxter, 1979

As for Day of Rest, or come in from 'Cut Short', to top of day of rest\'s first pitch.

Start: as for 'Day of Rest'

  1. 32m (15) As for 'Day of Rest'

  2. 25m (22) Traverse right into shallow groove on the left edge of upper curtain wall, then up to cave, belay

  3. 5m (22) Now do the roof to the top.

FA: Kim Carrigan Barry Young, 1979

Start on ramp at base of wall, step across curving crack, into small hanging corner on the left, up to horizontal break, above are two short seams, take the one on the right till it ends, then run it out till it eases.belay

Start: On the ramp at base of wall

  1. 30m (23)

  2. 5m (22) As for 'Day of Rest' direct Finish

FA: Mark Moorhead Chris Shepherd, 1980

Start below a protruding bolt, up past this, then go up and left to eventually join 'Cheap Trip', move back right and up to second bolt, boldly up wall to finish as for 'Drama Class'.

Start: Just below a protruding bolt

FA: Ingo Knapp Hienze Zak, 1985

Start at small tree at the middle of wall, over bulge, then up crack to slab, up this aiming for crack through next bulge, up to roof then desperately out crack and up to top.

Start: At small tree in middle of wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead Paul Aubrey (wall 79) Kim Carrigan Rod Young (roof), 1979

Start below a right leading crack, up this then through small overlaps to main roof, up steep corner to bolt, then up to horizontal, then traverse two meters right and up to mantle finish.

Start: at rightward leading crack to the right of a small tree.

FA: Kim Carrigan Rod young (wall)Mark Moorhead Chris Shepherd (roof 81), 1979

A girdle traverse of the lower curtain, start right of 'Cliff Hanger' at small corner, up to traverse line and follow this to the cave on 'Day of Rest Direct Finish', either keep going or go straight up

Start: Right of 'Cliff Hanger'.

FA: Kim Carrigan Louise Shepherd, 1981

Right of 'Drama Class' is a crack through a roof, hard moves around this lead to the main roof or curtain, follow this all the way left just under the roof the whole way.

Start: Left of 'Phys Ed'

FA: Louise Shepherd Cim Karrigan, 1981

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009


Check out what is happening in Upper Curtain Wall.