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Description

The Face on the R as you enter the gully.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Steep groove, delicate slab. Had a lower-off added around 2003; you can also walk off via KRGRF.

Start: Start on the L end of 'Skydiver' Wall, just L of a nose.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

Head diagonally L (bold but not the crux), then the flake.

Alternatively, head diagonally right from the initial jug to a shallow groove which has some gear, then back left.

Start: Start R of S, 1m L of small tree.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981

Go straight up, it's hard to get the pro in.

Start: Start behind the tree, 1m R of CAL.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Straight up well protected wall.

Start: Start 1m R of EMM.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981

Seam with two bolts.

Start: Start 1m R of FA.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981

Face, around L side of block, wall above.

Start: Start 1m L of R.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1982

The crack, moving R at overhang.

Start: Start just R of C-O at the obvious offwidth crack.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1978

It is possible to climb into Retardation but you can suspend the disbelief and stay on the wall. The climbing sends you rightwards after that anyway.

Mistakenly named Austisticus Spasticus in Simey and Glen's guide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6isXNVdguI8

FA: Mark Wood, 2005

Start beneath high ring bolt and follow right-trending overlaps to a diabolical crux level with the bolt. Turn your mind insane and follow the seam to its end, whereby a worrying reach out to crimps and a sidepull leads you to easier climbing above. Take small thin (0.5cm) slings to wrap around nubbins en-route and a large one for the jug further up. Make sure you don't fall off past the bolt!

Start: Start 2m R of R.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1989

Stick clip U-bolt. Take a running jump off the end of the ledge and leap for the jug. Simultaneously, get your belayer to take in about 5 metres of slack however seems apt. Then climb the crack.

Start: Start off the R end of the ledge.

FA: Mike Law & Malcolm Matheson, 1983

Originally supposed to stick-place a #2 hex to protect the monster jump-start. As usual there is more than one level of shade here. Originally the nut was placed and then used for aid to place a backup. Finally Mikl has put in a sensible bolt.

Start: Start as for TOR.

FA: Mike Law & Malcolm Matheson, 1983

A classic piece of Mike Law funkness. Start left of 'Skydiver' beneath the bolt and try your best to get off the ground and reach the sanctuary of the seam above (crux). Once into the seam, continue up the obvious line (grade 23 this section) via technical face climbing and more bolts. Pull through the top bulge on slopers and finish easily.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

VS to SM starting from the right past 2 FH's. Bolts are rusted and need replacing with stainless.

Up the corner, moving out L about halfway - this can be done higher or lower, as shown in topo. Then up face to ledge with rap anchor.

Start: Start 3m R of SM beneath appealing orange corner.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1978

Link up of Skydiver to Sustained Metaphor. Start up Skydiver until the horizontal weakness at about 8m. Go L along this to the groove on Sustained Metaphor, and up this to the top. Great sustained climbing.

FA: Unknown

Start: Start 1.5m R of S.

  1. 18m (23) Up the RH corner, then 2 bolts to double bolt belay.

  2. 12m (21) L almost to arete, then up just R of arete.

FA: Mike Law & Greg Garnham, 1982

Up BM to it's first bolt. Head right to another bolt, some hard moves and finally BM's anchor.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Jessie Rushbrooke, 4 Jan 2015

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