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Description

The cliff high up between Colosseum Wall and King Rat Gully.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

The last part gets steep.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts on left side of the wall immediately left of 'Bermuda Triangle'. Up to where a series of wedged blocks in a horizontal break leads right. Follow this rightwards until you are nearly at the BT roof then climb strenuously straight up to top using a series of pockets. - Fun!

FA: Richard Curtis & Phil Armstrong, 1978

The corner, then R around the roof.

Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Barry Edwards, 1977

The weakness up the thin face.

Start: Start 6m R of BT.

FA: Nick Neagle, Tony Barker & Paul Francis, 1989

Very contrived as it's much easier to use jugs just L.

Start: Start 5m R of T&Q.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watson & Rob Thompson, 1982

Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo).

Start: Start ~50m R of BT.

FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1977

The corner on the R to ledge, then interesting curving corner.

Start: Start as for LHV.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch & Dave Simpson, 1975

If you can find this you're doing better than us. May be a repeat of final crack of 'Right Hand Variant'

Start: High on the broken cliffs right of Bermuda triangle is a curving offwidth crack which is almost impossible to see from anywhere. Find your way to the base of this.

FA: Glenn Marsden & Greg Pritchard, 2006

The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.

  1. 20m (14) Up arete.

  2. 30m (14) Scramble up left to middle of wall. Up most obvious line.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard (alts) & James Falla., 2000

Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it.

Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page).

FA: Rod Young & Tim Chapman, 1981

Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam.

Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988

Steep direct line with some brittle rock.

The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Pete Canning, 24 Jul 2008

An obscure choice for this era when almost all the other classics of 'Arapiles' were still unclimbed! For over thirty years guidebooks placed this climb in the wrong gully. The good news is that no-one has missed it. Some awful rock.

Start a few metres right of A Sore Finger. There's a wonky letter S painted somewhere.

  1. 22m (7) The loose juggy crack to a large ledge.

  2. 32m (7) R and up loose dangerous rib.

  3. 12m (-) Scramble off.

FA: Daryl Carr & Jerry Grandage, 1966

Activity

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