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Description

The gully around to the L of King Rat Gully and Bum Rock.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

10 minutes from the camping ground.

Descent notes

Rap chains above Light Fingered.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Up to cracks and up to the ledge below 'Urban Sprawl'.

Start: Start: On the left of the entrance to 'Hunger' 'Gully' is twin cracks through a

shallow prow.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins., 1995

Areas

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Routes

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Grade Route

The crack at the L end of the short overhung orange wall.

Start: Start at the top of a steep gully L of 'Light Fingered'.

FA: Rod Young, 1980

Caveat emptor!

Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'.

FA: Mike Law & Mark Colyvan, 1983

Bridge, then into seam with 1 bolt and 1 piton. Double rings on ledge.

Start: Start on the R wall of the gully L of 'Light Fingered'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981

The seam.

Start: Start just R of 'Hunger'.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1989

Struggle up the good line.

Start: Start below the obvious grey wall just before the gully narrows below crack that widens.

FA: Mike Law, 1977

Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete.

Start: Start 2m R of LF.

FA: Mike Law & Ian ANger, 1983

Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow.

Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

Activity

Check out what is happening in Light Fingered Gully.