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Description

Above the initial narrow part of Hunger Gully the gully widens above a large ledge. Urban Sprawl takes the obvious crack line through the roof 2m right of the left arete on the wall that faces camp. Opposite Urban Sprawl is a large wall that forms the continuation of the Hunger Gully wall. This is also know as Buttress Buttress Gully

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Approach up one of the routes on Hunger Wall or left of the gully, or from above. (**As you enter from above the first two lines you reach are Uncle Fistula and Dance of the Flaming Anus).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: Opposite VIMH.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999

If you want to know the actual name they gave it - which would make even Nowra climbers blush - you'll have to ask them yourself.

Start: 2m right of Nempnett Thrubwell.

Up following faint line to top.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999

Bridge up to gain flake and then follow it till angle eases. Up vague

arete to top.

Start: Start: 3m right of chockstone step in gully, below flake.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999

Bridge up to gain flake and climb up to roof. Swing through roof.

Start: Start: Three metres right again is another flake.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999

Anyone who isn't paranoid lacks imagination. A technical onsight lead. Continue down the gully past a short step. Directly under the narrowest part of the gully there is a shallow black corner which leans right and runs up to a series of roofs and overhangs. Directly above the start of this route there is a thin crack through a large overhang. The line shown in the topo is a guess.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, James Falla. (Improved LHF by Jon Bassindale & Nikki Sutherland), 2000

See if you can pick the theme running here?

Start: 4m Right of VIMH below an obvious corner.

Up corner to roof which is swung around to the right.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is an obvious leftward diagonal. Start below the right end of this diagonal.

Up to gain the diagonal which is followed until it seems to make sense to swing back right and up.

FA: Nikki Sutherland, Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 2000

Start: Continue down the wall from SSHSEBI5. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is a line (starting just left of the hole) that goes up past a large pocket.

Up line.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1999

Up this.

Start: On the left wall of Buttress Buttress 'Gully' (Upper Hunger), right of the steep stuff, is a shallow groove.

FA: Glen Marsden & Greg Pritchard, 2006

Activity

Check out what is happening in Upper Hunger.