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1 25m
2 15m
3 10m

description

One of the most outstanding routes at Arapiles. The two pitches provide two very different beasts. Pitch 1 is a runout slab ending at the roof. Pitch 2 is the roof itself, which involves powerful climbing on good holds, passing one carrot and a fixed hanger where the piton used to be. The old piton on the second pitch came out in the hands of some unsuspecting climbers and completely broke the placement when it did. Thus it was replaced with a bolt which makes it much more tame. Both grade 25 pitches are graded to take into account seriousness.

  1. 25m (25) Up the face then left and up to flake. Step right and run it out to roof (small cam in pocket). Traverse 6 metres right to rap anchor.

  2. 15m (25) Jug out roof past carrot and fixed hanger and around lip. Up wall veering right to flake then traverse steeply back left to belay in little cave.

  3. 10m (18) Through bulge and up.

© (boardlord)

Route history

1979First ascent: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75183, 141.83544

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

25 R Assigned grade
25 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
25 RockGUIDE: Victoria
25 private
25 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
26 [24 - 27] + grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 100 from 5 ratings.

Tick Types

Red point 1
Top rope 1
Attempt 2
Target 1

Comment keywords

interesting face bad hard crux amazing fun good exciting awesome

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