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description

The deep cleft isn't the problem; it's the technical crack at the finish.

Start at the right-hand line in the cleft, as for "Serpent"

  1. 30m (15) Easily up right side of chimney to a big roof. Exit right and continue up on steep rock to a big ledge.

  2. 18m (17) Up thin, left-leaning corner crack to easy ground.

Route history

1968First ascent: Phillip Stranger

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.73684, 141.83150

Grade citation

17 Assigned grade
17 * ACA Route Register
17 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
17 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
19 [19 - 20] ++ grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 55 from 43 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 25
Flash 2
Tick 18
Top rope 1
Attempt 5
Target 1

Comment keywords

committing good satisfying classic brilliant superb jamming chimney slippery roof feet bridging crack interesting technical hard crux tough tired

Activity

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