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description

The long corner of the first pitch is lovely. BIRD TAKING UP RESIDENCE 9 sept 2018, stay off until nesting over

  1. 36m (10) Up line to ledge taking care with some loose blocks just before the belay.

  2. 12m (8) Avoid the bottomless chimney (grade 12) by climbing the face out right up to the terrace.

  3. 32m (10) The best line is to continue up the left-facing corner directly above. Alternatively, traverse 3 metres right to a shallow corner. Up this, loose blocks to ledge, traverse 5 metres right to another corner and up to top.

© (kieranl)

Route history

Sep 1966First ascent: Ted Batty, Bob Bull, Peter Jackson. Pitch 3 corner : Rob Taylor & Daryl Carr.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75077, 141.83511

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

11 Assigned grade
10 * ACA Route Register
10 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
12 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
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A
M
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J
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 63 from 37 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 19
Solo 4
Tick 18
Target 9

Comment keywords

jamming epic short interesting crack face easy exposed hard crux lovely beautiful nice great awesome good

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Activity

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