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description

Up on jugs to rest at roof, place bomber cams and then launch out into glory across the roof into the crux at the lip. Easy up headwall to welcome belay

Start: Start at the ledge below the big roof with the chalked flakes.

© (Olbert)

Route history

Apr 1977First ascent: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75019, 141.83492

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

21 Assigned grade
21 OZ Rock
21 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
21 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
21 RockGUIDE: Victoria
21 [21 - 22] + grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 90 from 388 ratings.

Difficulty - 21

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 7 ratings.

Suggested Grade

21

Based on 7 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 123
Flash 70
Red point 53
Tick 90
Pink point 17
Attempt 114
Target 26

Comment keywords

runout intimidating terrifying scary fall exposed short dry flake rest crap hands lip bail crazy smooth slippery easy reachy interesting jugs steep crack fiddly feet traverse epic face mantle bad roof lovely classic super nice great rad sweet fun perfect exciting ripper stoked superb fantastic enjoyable amazing incredible beautiful cool good awesome brilliant pumped difficult desperate hard tired solid crux

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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