Routes in Organ Pipes Area for selected grade

"If you enjoy crumbling sea cliffs, you might feel at home on this" (Mentz-Tempest guide). Climb through moss to a ledge, to stand below the striking grey prow. Some gymnastic moves are required to get started, and if your second is not tall they will struggle to remove the gear you placed out of their reach at this point. Follow the line of pockets up, veering left at the end.

Start at the small flake but step L and then up.

Start: Start 2m R of CS.

Straight up the flake.

Start: Start as for V.

Start on the L to gain the diagonal.

Start: Start on the 3rd blocky pinnacle, opposite the 2nd pinnacle.

The face.

Start: Start 1m R of CRaCM.

Up FP to the PR then R and up mossy streak. Start as for FP.

Start at the left-leading diagonal crack. Follow it into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse 5m right to a tricky exit.

Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of D Minor. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though. Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the Quaver chimney.

1. 20m (16) Up finger crack to ledge then diagonally left into Quaver. Swing up left onto slab and FH and go straight up thin centre of slab to the first belay of D Minor.

2. 10m (20) Up arete left of D Minor - clip the first bolt from up L then drop back down and climb the front of the arete direct.

Makes a good change.

The original approach to what eventually became Jen's Roof. Bridge up the gully left of Dirge then out right to short thin crack. From crack go right into Dirge and up this to roof on right. Hand-traverse right on the lip of the roof to where there is now a FH, then up steep jugs to chains.

Left to right over nose. Sit start.