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Description

The SE most pinnacle of the Organ Pipes. The main wall faces S towards the Atridae.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

From the big gully R of the Atridae.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Reachy.

Start: Start 4m L of SD, below little gumtree poking out of cliff.

FA: Tim Day, Nick Neagle & Craig Roberts, 1992

Gain striking grey prow, veer R at the top.

Start: Start 8m L of SDV.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977

Up face, over pocketed roof, then up R to hole.

Start: Start under the arch.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Tattersall, 1982

Up the slick crack to join SD.

Start: Start beneath the white L-arching crack.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977

Polished face, with 1 BR which is scary to clip, and a scary finish.

Start: Start 2m R of SDV.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Malcolm Matheson, 1981

Short flake, fixed wire, to BR. Up wall then L to flake.

Start: Start on ledge 5m around R of MS.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Up the patch of orange rock, 2 BRs.

Start: Start on the tiny outcrop which is downhill from 'Steel Delinquency' Pinnacle, and which faces the same way.

Trench Rawfare - it'll leave you raw!

Offwidth/Roof trench on the right hand side of Steel Delinquency Pinnacle. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Finger Prince.

Go up cave roof and out. Rappel Anchors installed at top of climb.

As this is an offwidth, the grade is somewhat subjective. 23 was recommended to me by mate who climbed it and thinks its harder. I'm definitely open to changing the grade if you think it's completely sandbagged or heaps easier :D

FFA: Chris Ferre, 12 Jan 2018

FA: Chris Ferre, 12 Jan 2018

Activity

Check out what is happening in Steel Delinquency Pinnacle.