A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
ed Kieran Loughran Campbell Gome Douglas Hockly Brendan Heywood benwiessner Andrew Clark James Gooden Justin Wimmer Cliff Barnett
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
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Table of contents
- 1. D Minor Pinnacle 14 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. D Minor Pinnacle 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
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All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.761236, 141.845178
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
description
The completely separate pinnacle at the L end of the Organ Pipes.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area
access issues
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
descent notes
Rap station at the top.
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Aardvark Original Start
The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1976 | 22 R | 18m | |||||
2 |
★★ Aardvark
Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the D Minor side. The thin crack opposite Lemmington over low overlap and up R-facing flake. Descend via rap off chains. FA: original start by Peter Lindorff & Chris George early 70s with 2 aids FA: that was freed by Kevin Lindorff., 1975 FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ed Neve, 1975 | 18 | 18m | |||||
3 |
Cadenza Direct
Start just R of the original arete start for 'Aardvark'. The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean (aid), 1966 FA: freed to the break at 19M3 by Alec Campbell, 1966 FFA: Dave Jones & Rich Heap, 1996 | 28 | 18m | |||||
4 |
★★ Cadenza
Start at the left-leading diagonal crack. Follow the diagonal left into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse right to a tricky exit. FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965 FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1975 | 20 | 20m | |||||
5 |
★★ The Philosopher
Follow the seams straight up from the start of 'Cadenza' and finish up that climb Take care as gear is hard to see and place. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1968 FFA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979 | 24 | 18m | |||||
6 | ★ The Philosopher Direct | 25 | 18m, 1 | |||||
7 |
★★ Les Memoires d'un Ane
Thin and glassy. Start 2 metres right of 'The Philosopher' Climb past 2 bolts to join 'The Philosopher'. At first horizontal traverse right to flake (FH) then up to anchor. FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984 | 27 | 18m, 3 | |||||
8 |
★ Quaver
Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face. Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way. FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966 | 14 | 30m, 1 | |||||
9 |
Semi-Quaver
Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of 'D Minor'. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though. Start: Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the 'Quaver' chimney.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman. 1990s., 1994 | 20 | 30m, 2, 3 | |||||
10 |
★★ Minuet
Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor. FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Allen, 1964 | 15 X | 33m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★★ D Minor
Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.
FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964 | 14 | 35m, 2 | |||||
12 |
★ Crescendo
Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern Essentially the right arete of D Minor. Start 2m R of D Minor. Up thin stepped line. Things ease off from about half-height before an exciting finish up arete. FA: Tony Dignan & Kevin Lindorff , 1978 | 17 | 35m | |||||
13 |
★★ Cantata
Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern Good line up right side of 'D Minor' Pinnacle. Start: Below bulging crack on arete right of 'D Minor'.
FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean. Aid reduced by Mike Stone & Keith Lockwood in 1970. Freed : Chris Baxter, 1974 | 18 | 35m, 2 | |||||
14 |
★ Cantata Variant Start
Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern | 19 | 30m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
14 | ★★ | D Minor | 35m, 2 | ||
★ | Quaver | 30m, 1 | |||
15 X | ★★ | Minuet | 33m | ||
17 | ★ | Crescendo | 35m | ||
18 | ★★ | Aardvark | 18m | ||
★★ | Cantata | 35m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ | Cantata Variant Start | 30m | ||
20 | ★★ | Cadenza | 20m | ||
Semi-Quaver | 30m, 2, 3 | ||||
22 R | ★ | Aardvark Original Start | 18m | ||
24 | ★★ | The Philosopher | 18m | ||
25 | ★ | The Philosopher Direct | 18m, 1 | ||
27 | ★★ | Les Memoires d'un Ane | 18m, 3 | ||
28 | Cadenza Direct | 18m |