Site navigation

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Vague, left-leading seams up the middle of the wall left of "Fly By Night"

FA: Roland Foster & Mark Moorhead, 1983

Unlikely with a committing finish. Take plenty of small wires.

Start: Start as for "Fly By Night"

FA: Clive Curson, 2001

A good, pumpy route with some suspect rock.

Start: Start on the left wall at the back of the chimney.

FA: Keith Egerton & Chris Baxter, 1986

On the wall directly opposite "Fly by Night". Scramble up to the large scoop with the right trending crack. A bouldery move into the scoop. Move up and left, following the edge of the scoop. Traverse right underclinging the top of the scoop before pulling through the lip onto an easy topout. Cross chockstone to "Fly by Night" anchors. Gear is sparse, but adequate and bomber.

FA: Steve Greig & Mark Baker, 15 Feb

Climb flakes 2 metres left of "Gwen" to overhang and finish up flake and wall above.

FA: Chris Baxter & Keith Egerton, 1985

Steep, juggy corner on right edge of chimney.

FA: Heather Phillips, Kieran Loughran & Keith Egerton, 1981

A nice climb making its way up the twin cracks right of "Fly By Night" 'Gully'.

Start: Originally started at Chemistry Class but that is pretty hard. Select guide says to start from a convenient tree just downhill from the entrance to "Fly By Night" gully but this start is hard, mossy and poorly protected. Better to start at the crack in the arete just outside "Fly By Night" gully

FA: Rod young & Kevin Otten, 1979

FA: Start : Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1994

Hard seam to ledge, step left and follow the line into the finishing crack of "Cheops".

Start: Start at thin, left-leading seam down right from "Cheops".

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983

Seam right of 'Chemistry Class' (crux), step left and go up wall of big bums, trending right.

FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993

A novelty start leads to an intimidating finish.

Start: Start under the massive chockstone in the gully below the "Cheops" buttress.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Jon Muir, 1993

Essentially a variant finish to "Long Hair And Greatcoats". It originally started by moving around the right side of the huge chockstone but that is worthless.

Start: Start as for "Long Hair And Greatcoats".

FA: Daryl Carr & Ken Readwin, 1967

Could make a good second pitch for "Turquoise". Could also be undergraded and runout.

Start: Start on big ledge above the jammed block that "Hendor" starts below.

FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993

Activity

Check out what is happening in Cheops Buttress.