A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran Campbell Gome benwiessner Douglas Hockly Wendy Eden Dave Scarlett Robert Mudie Ben Wright Steve Vanessa Wills
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Pharos Gully
169 in Crag
- 1.1. Vanoise Area 41 in Cliff
- 1.2. Duck Crag 8 in Cliff
- 1.3. Baker's Wall 15 in Cliff
- 1.4. Heckle and Jeckle Area 24 in Cliff
- 1.5. Voidoid Pinnacle 9 in Cliff
-
1.6.
Huey and Satellites 29 in Cliff
- 1.6.1. Upper Pharos Gully 12 in Area
- 1.6.2. Jackass Wall 10 in Area
- 1.7. Spellbinder Area 17 in Cliff
- 1.8. Cheops Buttress 15 in Cliff
- 1.9. Ethereal Buttress 9 in Cliff
-
1.10.
Pharos Gully Bouldering 2 in Boulder
- 1.10.1. Ministry of fig pluckers 2 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. Pharos Gully 169 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753801, 141.838856
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
access issues
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
1.1. Vanoise Area 41 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.754106, 141.840299
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Reusables
Even shorter corner L of SN, then follow front of buttress to the top. Great route for kids. FA: Goshen Watts & Asher, Mar 2018 | 4 | 15m | |||||
2 |
★ Shitty Nappies
Short corner and arete on left side of wall, starting 2 metres left of "Party Tricks". A bit contrived up high. FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1992 | 12 | 15m | |||||
3 |
★ Party Tricks
Face 3 metres left of the seam of "I Can't Breathe" to undercling, then up and right to finish up "I Can't Breathe". FA: Rob Allen & Evab Bieske, 2000 | 23 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
★ I Can't Breathe
Attractive seam up middle of buttress opposite "Vanoise". There is good gear if you can hang on long enough to place it. Double ropes can be advantageous on this route FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 25 | 15m | |||||
5 |
★ The Venus Trap
Quite a nice, subtle climb. Start up the flake on the left wall of the chimney-gully right of I Can't Breathe for 3 metres then go diagonally left to finish up I Can't Breathe FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1992 | 15 | 15m | |||||
6 |
★ Cranky Babies
Flake on the left side of the chimney-gully just right of "I Can't Breathe" continuing straight up where "The Venus Trap" moves off left. FA: Cathy Blamey & Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 20 | 12m | |||||
7 |
★ Romper Room
Easy chimney immediately right of "Cranky Babies", finishing up right wall. FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987 | 5 | 15m | |||||
8 |
Beer, Product of Australia
The right arete of "Romper Room" is a bit runout. FA: Jon Muir (solo), 1993 | 16 R | 10m | |||||
9 |
★ Lights in the Sky
Deep crack 2 metres right of "Romper Room". Take big gear, knee pads and crack gloves. FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987 | 12 | 15m | |||||
10 |
★ Bites in the Pie
Borderline for a star but an interesting jamming experience. The crack right of "Lights In The Sky" FA: Greg Pritchard & Jon Muir, 1993 | 12 | 10m | |||||
11 |
R.I.P. Sludge
This sits almost directly above "Defector" on Ministry Wall; combining the two could be quite nice. Otherwise, to get to the start, scramble up the descent route on the left side of the Vanoise Wall and go left a little or come down from the top. Central line up little brown tombstone-shaped buttress above and left of descent route. FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins, Suzie Frost & Dave Clarke, 1993 | 11 | 10m | |||||
12 |
Brushless
Still surprisingly clean. Climb cleanish streak about 15 metres left of the little hanging corner at the left end of the long roof-line on Vanoise Wall. FA: Robin Miller (solo), 1984 | 15 | 15m | |||||
13 |
Beat Route
Onto small ledge and up shallow, right-facing corner to ledge below main overhang. Step left and up. Start: 25 metres left of "Vanoise". FA: Chris Baxter, Joy Fletcher & Greg Garnham, 1982 | 13 | 40m | |||||
14 |
The Peasants are Revolting
A harder finish to "Beat Route". Up this to roof and pull over on brittle holds to right. FA: Robin Miller (solo), 1982 | 17 | 40m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
Tamesis
Up crack for 7 metres, step left and go up to and over high roofline. Start: Start at crack 20 metres left of "Vanoise". FA: Chris Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke, 1969 | 14 | 42m | |||||
16 |
★ Greenwich Reach
A good, varied pitch with an exciting steep finish that was originally dirty, poorly protected and with significant loose blocks. Now cleaned up and with a couple of tweaks to avoid runouts and loose blocks as well as a rap anchor. The thin crack section is a little contrived but keeps the line flowing. Start as for Tamesis, the first crack system left of Vanoise. Up the crack (originally climbed poorly protected face 2m to right) and at about 7 metres, instead of stepping left into the obvious continuation, follow thin cracks up the face to little step in the roofline. Swing right through this step (originally moved up left into next corner over dangerous blocks). Easily up for next 5 or 6 metres to twin cracks through top bulge. Initially up right-hand edge of right-hand crack then finish steeply between the cracks to anchor. 30m rappel. Be careful with the rap – new 60m ropes doubled reached the ground with about half a metre to spare whereas an old 60m doubled was about a metre off the ground. Don’t rap or get lowered off the end of the rope. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood (alt), 1995 | 17 | 30m | |||||
17 |
Goodbye Cool World
Start up Greenwich Reach for 3-4m until it is possible to diagonal across right to break in the roof. Through roof, up to next and through it then diagonal left up to anchor on Greenwich Reach. Gear at 2nd roof a little iffy. FA: Louise Sheperd, Ying Ying He & Wendy Eden, 26 Nov 2016 | 21 | 32m | |||||
18 |
★ The Beat Goes On
A bit mossy these days. 5 metres left of The British Beat and about 4 metres right of Tamesis is a rusty carrot down low. Up past this to roof which is easy and leads to the Labouring The Point anchor. FA: Mike Law & Steve Howden, 1982 | 22 | 50m, 1 | |||||
19 |
★★ The British Beat
Lovely, technical thin face. Be careful not to fall off clipping the second bolt. Start: 4 metres left of the 'Vanoise' corner. Smooth orange wall to rap chain. (Worthless variant start goes up lichenous streak on right to join route below 2nd bolt Jamie Holding, Rosemary Weaver 16-05-1990) FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Hoskins, 1981 | 21 | 15m, 2 | |||||
20 |
★★ Vanoise Direct Start
A worthwhile alternative start making Vanoise a more sustained and independent line. Start 3 metres left of the shared crack start with Labouring the Point, below a small V crack. Climb to V crack and follow weaknesses to where Vanoise and Labouring the Point diverge then finish as top of Vanoise. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Grace Went, 8 Oct 2021 | 20 | 20m | |||||
21 |
★★ Vanoise
Really interesting corner on the right side of the smooth orange face. It gets harder as it arches over further to the left to chain under roof. The climb originally continued to top of cliff but it's not worth it so no-one bothers. FA: Bruno Zielke & Chris Dewhirst, 1969 | 20 | 20m | |||||
22 |
★ Labouring the Point
The original climb followed the upper roof-line all the way left until it ends at a short corner. An amusing concept that no-one can be bothered repeating. Stick to the first pitch as described. FA: Mike Law & kim Carrigan, 1975 | 16 | 90m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
23 |
Strange Tails
Follow buttress all the way, taking crux bulge on right via obvious loose flake. Start: Between 'Vanoise' and 'Agent Orange'. FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 19 R | 30m | |||||
24 |
★★ Secret Agent Orange
Straightens out Agent Orange. At the roof corner, step left then up and into AO. FA: Rhys Boyar, 27 Jan 2019 | 17 | ||||||
25 |
★★ Agent Orange
Conjures up an image of Chris Baxter clutching a bush and screaming as he hurtles down "Vanoise". The little flake just right of the initial corner has also been climbed at 19. Start: At small, right-facing corner 3 metres right of "Vanoise". Rap chains. FA: Chris Baxter & Paul Daniels, 1981 | 15 | 25m | |||||
26 |
★ Eye Spy
Takes the unlikely bulging wall between Agent Orange and West Coast Dogma. Start up wall and thin flake 2m right of AO (had been climbed previously) to join AO at its roof. When AO veers back left, continue straight up from obvious horizontal pocket following an independant line all the way. Gear is adequate. (Another option is to start up AO which makes it about grade 18) FFA: Gareth Llewellin & Jessie Rushbrooke, 22 Nov 2014 | 19 | 30m | |||||
27 |
★ West Coast Dogma
Start at chimney-cleft 10 metres right of "Vanoise". Up line. At small overhang step onto right arete and up steep wall. Abseil as for Agent Orange. FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967 | 14 | 33m | |||||
28 |
Not Bad for Bunnies
Apparently the grade drops to 16 if you start by bridging 3 metres up 'West Coast Dogma' then reach right into hanging crack to join line. Start between 'West Coast Dogma' and 'Dead Beat Sax' beneath small hanging block. Up to block, right, then into line going left, then straight up shallow crack. Up to bulge which is climbed on right. FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 22 | 30m | |||||
29 |
Dead Beat Sax
Crack 5 metres right of 'West Coast Dogma'. FA: Phillip Stranger (solo), 1967 | 10 | 30m | |||||
30 |
Beat More Meat
Boulder up to break and the first runners. Continue straight to top. Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Dead Beat Sax' at smooth wall. FA: Mike Law & Doug Fife, 1982 | 22 | 33m | |||||
31 |
Scathed
The "protection" style might appeal to the budding aid climber. Start 2 metres right of 'Beat More Meat' at very thin, almost closed groove. Up groove with micro-wires and Crack'n'Ups (or hand-placed peckers maybe) for token protection. Finish up wall above. FA: Mike Law, Steve Howden & Eddy Ozols, 1982 | 21 | 30m | |||||
32 |
★ Stairway to Heaven
A gentle ramble with spectacular views all the way. Sort of a companion route to Spiral Staircase. The name also derives from the fact that the first ascent team had a combined age of 269, and featured more than 200 years of climbing experience. Starts between West Coast Dogma and Sombrero, where there is an obvious ledge 2m above the ground.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Keith Royce, Bob Ryan (alt leads), Ray Lassman & Miss Given, 16 Apr 2015 | 7 | 90m, 3 | |||||
33 |
Sombrero
Not great. Some distance down right are low-angled mossy faces with ledges in between. Scramble up to deep, right-facing chimney. This is your mission should you choose to accept it. FA: Lloyd Lobbe & Daryl Carr, 1967 | 8 | 84m | |||||
34 |
Default
The first ascent party were not fans. Left-facing flake right of Sombrero. FA: Mark Shelton, Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1976 | 13 | 42m | |||||
35 |
Robinson Crusoe
The wall right of Sombrero has been dubbed Treasure Island - I have my doubts. Climb the slab and steep wall midway between Sombrero and South Pacific. Continue easily, then finish steeply up the centre of the headwall left of South Pacific. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kurt Pitts, 5 Apr 2015 | 14 | 35m | |||||
36 |
South Pacific
The "obvious" right-facing corner on the wall right of Sombrero, then the left of twin lines up the headwall. FA: Kurt Pitts & Keith Lockwood, 5 Apr 2015 | 7 | 35m | |||||
37 |
Davy Jones Locker
Start up the South Pacific corner, then take the right-hand line past an unusual rock crypt. FA: Keith Lockwood, Kurt Pitts & Hamish Pitts, 5 Apr 2015 | 5 | 35m | |||||
38 |
The Black Pearl
Start by the huge native pine. Sail straight up the central seam, finishing centrally over steepening. Continue easily up the shoulder of the outcrop. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kurt Pitts, 2 Apr 2015 | 13 | 35m | |||||
39 |
Blackbeard
Seam 2m right of The Black Pearl (this seam is left of a short little corner), finishing easily as for The Black Pearl. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Apr 2015 | 13 | 35m | |||||
40 |
Long John Silver
Best approached by one of the other climbs in the vicinity. Step across the tree-filled gully behind the top of South Pacific etc, follow the weakness in the wall and finish centrally up the juggy tower. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Apr 2015 | 8 | 30m | |||||
41 |
Pieces of Eight
The easiest slab at Arapiles(?). Could be done as an approach pitch to Long John Silver. Climbs central weakness in the slab around right from Blackbeard. Scramble up to start. Gentle slab split by a juggy crack. FA: Keith Lockwood, Laurie Bennett & Shaun Norman, 21 Apr 2015 | 8 | 18m |
1.2. Duck Crag 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Short, south-facing overhung orange wall just right of the top of Agent Orange.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Duck Crack
Little jam-crack on left. FA: Kirsty Hamilton, 1993 | 18 | 6m | |||
2 |
Is Vanya a Duck?
Bold line 3 metres right of 'Duck Crack'. Alternative finish is to diagonal 2 metres right to flake. FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 20 | 8m | |||
3 |
Another One Bites The Duck
Obvious traverse line. FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 18 | 10m | |||
4 |
Duck Addendum
Supposed to be good. From loose block on ground, up to horizontal, step right and up shallow. left-facing corner. FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 18 | 10m | |||
5 |
Anatadaephobia
Fear of being watched by ducks! From block swing right to flake, up. FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 24 | 10m | |||
6 |
Fluffy Duck
Start at big jug down left of 'Anatadaephobia' (place a couple of wires in this for protection). Up to horizontal break FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 23 | 10m | |||
7 |
Home for Tea
These two climbs are on the gentle wall opposite Duck Crag, directly below a slackline launch site. Easily approached via the disabled lookout. Home for Tea is an obvious finish to Duck up the Stairs. Crack on the wall opposite the northern edge of Duck Crag. The crack leads to a gentle slab, trending left to the top. FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 8 Sep 2018 | 12 | 15m | |||
8 |
Back by Three
Take the clean orange slab above the southern edge of Duck Crag, finishing on the left side of the summit block. FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Sep 2018 | 7 | 15m |
1.3. Baker's Wall 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.754269, 141.839449
description
The impressive-looking orange wall halfway up the left side of Pharos Gully is not as good as it looks but it's still not too bad.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
approach
It's most easily approached from above via the disabled lookout. From beneath go left below the Voidoid Pinnacle.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Stale Bread
The left one. FA: Geordie Webb & Wendy Eden, 14 Jan 2017 | 16 | 15m | |||||
2 |
Soggy Muffin
A few metres left of Lou Will be Pissed are two flake lines. This is the right one. Not the best routes in the world but not really any worse than the other route routes on the wall. FA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 14 Jan 2017 | 14 | 15m | |||||
3 |
Middle Aged Nathan
Straight up to and through obvious weakness between Soggy Muffin and Lou will be pissed. FA: unknown | 17 | 15m | |||||
4 |
Lou Will Be Pissed
Up breaks then slab left of 'Prendergast' roof. Start: Start about 6 metres left of the 'Prendergast' flake. FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Suzie Frost, 1993 | 17 | 10m | |||||
5 |
Flabbergast
Good. Wall 4 metres left of Prendergast flake and through roof just left of middle. FA: Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1993 | 16 | 10m | |||||
6 |
Prendergast
Layback flake to right end of roof. At roof, traverse left and up. Start: Start at the layback flake 30 metres left of diagonal. FA: Keith Lockwood & Doug Palmen, 1977 | 12 | 15m | |||||
7 |
Dotage
Start: 10 metres right of 'Prendergast', 20 metres left of diagonal is a bulbous hanging nose. Start under the left corner of this. Up slab, over left of 2 obvious loose flakes. Finish up corner. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985 | 13 | 20m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★ Shadow Foxing
Some very good moves on lovely rock. Start below orange hanging nose. Up slab, stepping left around overhang into corner on left side of nose. Now back out right onto nose, pull up steeply then easy ground. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 16 | 20m | |||||
9 |
Hugh Goes West
Climb flake and wall above. Start: Start below easy right-facing flake 4 metres right of 'Shadow Foxing'. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 13 | 20m | |||||
10 |
Second Thoughts
Quite sustained and poorly protected. Start 2 metres right of Hugh Goes West. Up to diagonal, then right along horizontal break, up and across to bottomless corner and climb this. FA: Charlie Creese, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 18 | 20m | |||||
11 |
Marcia’s Route
A nice corner-crack behind tree leading directly to the foot of Squirrel & Baker's Delight. If only doing this climb, belay on the first ledge and walk off left. FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Marcia, 2006 | 14 | 10m | |||||
12 |
★★ Bakers Delight
Lovely looking wall but start (at least) is reachy. Climb the attractive orange wall 4m to the left of Squirrel. Finish up a short handcrack near the top. Rap anchor: 20m to start of climb, 30m to ground. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 20 | 20m | |||||
13 |
Squirrel
Logically done as a two-pitch combo with "Marcia's Route". The initial wall is fingery and tiring to protect: small cams and beware of ledge-fall. Prominent black streak into a chimney-gully is harder than it looks. Descend via Bakers Delight rap. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 17 | 25m | |||||
14 |
Bakers' Route
Good, bold line. Start 3 metres right of 'Squirrel', below and left of diagonal above roof. Up to roof, traverse right and pull into diagonal. FA: Mike Law (solo), 1982 | 24 R | 15m | |||||
15 |
Load Shooter
Quite good but unbalanced with a bouldery start. Stepped corner right of Bakers' Route, moving left under first roof and up wall. FA: Doug Fife (solo), 1982 | 20 | 10m |
1.4. Heckle and Jeckle Area 24 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.754392, 141.839054
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Jewish Humour
Line 1.5 metres left of 'Hopelessly Obscure'. FA: Greg Pritchard & Kirsty Hamilton, 1993 | 15 | 9m | |||||
2 |
Hopelessly Obscure
Crack through bulge on right side of small face. FA: Bert Levy & Kate Jacobsen, 1990 | 18 | 9m | |||||
3 |
★ Laughing Like A Fat Spider
A typically bold route by Paul. Not much gear on the crux. The route Logical Conclusion (1997) written up recently (2009) by Bert Levy is a repeat of this climb. Start: Start left of 'Fantoochi'. FA: Hoskins & Bride, 1996 | 22 R | 12m | |||||
4 |
★ Fantoochi
Steep seam on orange rock. Step L and do the not-quite-direct-but-better-climbing finish. If you want. Don't let us pressure you. FA: Eddy Ozols, Natalie Green. Finish as described: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter.., 1985 | 20 | 13m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 |
Double Decker
Line 2 metres right of 'Fantoochi'. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese, 1985 | 17 | 13m | |||||
6 |
★ The Creesed Palm
Climb wall and step right to tiny, left-facing corner which is followed until you can swing right to arete. Up. Start: Start 1 metre right of 'Double Decker'. FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 17 | 14m | |||||
7 |
★ Wok Full of Custard
A neat little climb squeezed between Bed Lag and The Creesed Palm. Originally set as a top rope problem; there is enough gear in the corner to keep things sane. Start up Bed Lag, then move left into the corner on the arete. Small wires protect the run out to the rooflet, then move left to finish up The Creesed Palm. FA: Douglas Hockly FFA: benwiessner, 2 Oct 2021 | 22 | 15m | |||||
8 |
★ Bed Lag
Starts up 'Wogs at the Piles', but instead of breaking right continues straight up the face. At times the gear is small and spaced. FA: Charlie Creese & Robin Miller, 1985 | 21 R | 14m | |||||
9 |
★★ Wogs at the Piles
Previously described as "Good climbing but has some runout moves above not brilliant protection". Circa 2017 two retrobolt were added: one at the start (shared by Bedlag), and another bolt halfway (this has since been removed). Start at the arete of 'Bed Lag' and do a rising traverse through bulge across flakes to right arête. Up and finish slightly left. FA: Charlie Creese, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 21 R | 15m | |||||
10 |
★ Derros in the Pines
A contrived direct start to Wogs. Up past a shallow pocket to meet Wogs half way up. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & adam demmert, 11 Apr 2023 | 24 | 15m | |||||
11 |
★ Uncle Fester
Start as for crack attack then step L around corner to stance (no more bolt?). Up on the L of arete over sus gear to rail, move L and up. FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen tempest, Aug 2015 | 18 | 19m | |||||
12 |
★ Crack Attack
Steep climbing up the corner left of 'Mr Hyde'. FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 17 | 15m | |||||
13 |
★★ Mr Hyde
Good, sustained jam crack up left wall of 'Heckle'. Take a few large cams or hexes. Graded 15 by Mentz & Tempest, Arapiles Selected Climbs Guide Book. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1968 | 15 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★ Heckle
The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab. FA: Norm Booth & Murray Taylor, 1968 | 7 | 15m | |||||
15 |
★ Girl Talk
Clean black slab right of 'Heckle'. FA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 9 | 18m | |||||
16 |
★★ Rush of Blood
Well-protected technical climbing low-down leads to a runout finish. Crucial protection in the top half of the climb is provided by an insecure sling; double ropes help. FA: Keith Lockwood, Sue Key & Ed Neve, 1979 | 13 R | 18m | |||||
17 | ★★ Rush of Blood Direct Finish | 13 | 18m | |||||
18 |
Murph Takes the Plunge
Distinct black streak midway between Rush Of 'Blood' and 'Jeckle'. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985 | 15 | 18m | |||||
19 |
★ Jeckle
The very technical, bouldery start was always a bit of a shock to people expecting a grade 14! The rest of the route is substantially easier. FA: Garry Sudholz & Keith Lockwood, 1968 | 18 | 18m | |||||
20 |
★ Goodbye Gumby
Up flake, at top step right on orange wall and go up slightly right to easier finish. Start: Start at right-facing flake right of 'Jeckle' and before the streak of Clap For Kiwis. FA: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter, 1985 | 18 | 18m | |||||
21 |
★★ Clap for Kiwis
Brushed streak right of 'Jeckle' and left of the diagonal of 'Sheckle'. Now has a bolt on the crux, originally done without. Impressive by Lou. FA: Louise Shepherd & Robin Miller, 1984 | 22 | 18m, 1 | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
22 |
Scouting for Boys
Begin up the diagonal, step left at horizontal break and continue up face. Start: Start at the right-leading diagonal on right side of face. FA: Louise Shepherd & Eddie Ozols, 1984 | 22 | 18m | |||||
23 |
Sheckle Indirect Start
Start at the orange corner and inch your way up and right. It appears that some people who have done this route thought they were on Sheckle (grade 13)? Not great gear or climbing. | 20 | ||||||
24 |
★ Sheckle
The right-leading diagonal flake on the right end of the black slab. FA: Mike Law (solo), 1982 | 13 | 18m |
1.5. Voidoid Pinnacle 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unemploid
Arete left of Flights Of Fancy doing first 2 metres left of arete. FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard & Phil Wilkins, 1993 | 19 | 15m | |||||
2 |
★★ Jumping for Jugs
Steep and gymnastic good rock good gear. Start: Start as for "Flights of Fancy", clip the first bolt stepping off a big boulder to gain the horizontal break leading left with vague pockets, monkey up to second bolt and good jug, straight up to more gear before moving back right to join FOF then head back left and then up to the top, traversing right along a ledge to gain anchors FA: Muki Woods & Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 23 | 20m, 2 | |||||
3 |
★★ Jumping for Fancy
The logical bits of Flights of Fancy and Jumping for Jugs if you can't do the dyno of FOF. Up JFJ until you can move back right, and finish up FOF. Fun steep climbing with a thin runout finish (but if you have a decent wing span it feels very contrived to avoid the holds out left) | 24 | 25m, 2 | |||||
4 |
★ Flights of Fancy Direct
Start: Start at crack directly below the lone bolt in the middle of the south face (facing 'Heckle' and Jeckle) and head straight up past big dyno. The original route by Steve Monks traversed right at first break, up arete then back left somewhere at 25. FA: Steve Monks, 1986 | 27 | 20m | |||||
5 |
★ Voidoid
Pull into undercut line and up two left-facing corners, then step right and up. Start: Start around right of Flights Of Fantasy below arete. FA: Eddy Ozols & Colin Reece, 1978 | 19 | 20m | |||||
6 |
★ Totally Foxed!
On the west face is a blank piece of rock capped by a roof. Start 1m L of No Turning Back, passing some horizontal breaks to reach the roof. Crank through the roof to finish up the vertical seam. Gear is not great. FA: Steve Monks & Chris Baxter, 1986 | 22 | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★ No Turning Back
Distinguished line in middle of west wall. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 19 | 20m | |||||
8 |
★ Barefoot in the Park
Nice rock, nice moves, brilliant nut pro. With that many superlatives it's gotta be worth a star, right? Start: Start right of 'No Turning Back'. FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 1995 | 8 | 15m | |||||
9 |
A Walk In The Park
Twin cracks 2 metres right of Barefoot In The Park. FA: Sally Bentley & Eddy Rawlins, 2000 | 7 | 10m |
1.6. Huey and Satellites 29 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Good short climbs on the north side of Pharos 'Gully'.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
approach
The faces are located on the right-hand (northern) side of the creekbed in Pharos 'Gully'. Walk up the Pharos 'Gully' track until just after the 'Ethereal' buttress a pad leads off left into the creekbed. Follow the creek up until you bump into the Huey wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Vapour Trail
Varied and interesting. Start 4m R of Huey. The start has some long reaches protected by adequate gear in horizontals, then up the bottomless V-corner. FA: John Smoothy & Dave Humphries, 1980 | 22 | 15m | |||
2 |
Sanitize review
Not a popular pasttime. Climbing looks good but it's squeezed in. Probably bold like most of Roland's routes. Bottomless right-facing corner then bulge between Vapour Trail and Huey. FA: Roland Foster, 1983 | 23 | 15m | |||
3 |
★★ Huey
This beautiful thin crack is so good it just about rates three stars. Maybe if it was five metres longer? Pull into the flake just left of the cherry ballart then continue up the face-crack. FA: Dave Neilson & Keith McNaughton, 1968 | 18 | 16m | |||
4 |
★★ Stairway to Hell
Very pumpy and well-protected; take lots of cams including big ones. It used to start up Huey but the walk across the ledge at 5 metres was just silly. Start: Start 5 metres left of Huey at small corner. FA: Glenn Tempest & Phillip Armstrong, 1979 | 19 | 20m | |||
5 |
★ I Wish That Bulge Would Go Away
More good face-climbing. Start as for "Stairway to Hell" to ledge then wander up wherever you find holds, heading out right when faced with the blank bulge near the top. Be mindful of rope drag. FA: Louise Shepherd & Simon Mentz, 1991 | 20 | 16m | |||
6 |
★ Genitals of Speech
Diagonal crack 10 metres left of Huey with hard start. FA: John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard, 1984 | 21 | 15m | |||
7 |
★ New routing and other afflictions
Just behind Huey wall and a bit to the left is a small orange wall with and undercut start. This line take the twin seams with the small triangle roof at the start, beware of the loose looking blocks on the ledge. from the ledge head right through the steepness to the top FFA: adam demmert & Wendy Eden | 21 | 10m |
1.6.1. Upper Pharos Gully 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
approach
Up the gully past Huey Wall, or along the vague path off the Pharos Gully main track
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Stranger Than Friction
Buttress uphill from Voidoid Pinnacle - opposite 'Totally Foxed!' Right-leading diagonal. From almost at top of seam, step left and go up. Start: Start under hanging flake on left side of face. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985 | 17 | 25m | |||||
2 |
Sensible Shoes
Start on right side of wall. Traverse easily left and finish up weakness left of 'Stranger Than Friction'. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985 | 11 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★★ Vaginal Death Threat
Short corner bounding right side of wall. FA: Ed Sharp, Paul Colyvan & Greg Pritchard, 1984 | 18 | 15m | |||||
Way up the head of the gully, right down on the gully and facing south-east is this little orange wall. It's about 60 metres left of Huey, on the same (north-west) side and facing the same way. | ||||||||
5 |
★ Jerky Versions of the Dream
Fairly direct but not the logical line on this wall. From just left of centre go up and right to ledge. Diagonally left along crack, as for Sheer Ecstasy, then go back right up wall on buckets. FA: John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard, 1984 | 19 | 16m | |||||
6 |
★ Sheer Ecstasy
Not quite but you can't blame them for trying. Take the right-left diagonal all the way. Be careful at the end where the tendency is to run it out a little but the ground below is not all that far away. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985 | 16 | 20m | |||||
7 |
Teddy Bear's Picnic
A short way downhill from Sheer Ecstasy Wall on the same side of the creek is a small wall. At the start there are two left leaning parallel cracks that merge about halfway up. Take the right hand crack. This has a bouldery start. To the top. Good pro and an easy walk off. FA: Robbie Martin & John Watson, 2013 | 8 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
Bitchy and Itchy
Start: Up and behind "Huey" is a small wall with a large cave on the right side. Climb crack to left end of cave, step left and swing up the wall. Beware the first hold on the left side of the crack is actually a huge detached block which would do serious damage if it pulled off! Descent: Back and then scramble down and right past base of MOAFHG. FA: Paul Colyvan, Greg Pritchard & Ed Sharp, 1984 | 20 | 13m | |||||
Uphill from the righthand end of the Huey buttress is a prominent grey buttress. | ||||||||
10 |
★★ Memoirs of a Fox-hunting Gentleman
Full value, sustained climbing. Follow diagonal, starting out of gully, on left side of buttress. At major break, step right and up thin seam. FA: Robin Miller, Chris Bacter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 19 | 18m | |||||
11 |
★ Winching Pommies
The finish is a bit runout and insecure, especially if you're not quite tall. Climb arete just right of Memoirs of a Fox-hunting Gentleman for a few metres then go up wall immediately left of arete to an exciting finish. FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Robin Miller, 1985 | 16 | 18m | |||||
12 |
★ Crocks on the Rocks
Pleasant. Start from the ledge a few metres up and right of Winching Pommies. Follow weakness up wall right of arete with a hard move in the middle. FA: Robin Miller, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 16 | 16m | |||||
13 |
Arts Part-time
Nice slab. Up seam a few metres right of Crocks On The Rocks and step up right onto wall above, avoiding easy ground on right. Go up and slightly left on delicate wall then back slightly right to finish. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Robin Miller, 1985 | 16 | 16m | |||||
14 |
Lean Times
Start on south face of grey buttress opposite Crocks On The Rocks, immediately left of huge leaning tree against right side of buttress. Up then diagonally up left to small stance on left above overhangs. Finish steeply. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese, 1985 | 17 | 16m |
1.6.2. Jackass Wall 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
description
North-facing wall below Voidoid Pinnacle
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
approach
Go to Huey Wall and it's the continuation of the wall facing Huey.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Voidoid Direct Start
A route in its own right and not a great one at that. Start: Start in gully below 'Voidoid' under huge chockstone. Traverse high into line from left. FA: Greg Garnham, Chris Baxter & Joy Fletcher, 1982 | 18 | 15m | |||
2 |
A Bit of the Old One-Two
Easy crack then corner above. Start: Start up easy crack at left end of lower face, artound right of 'Voidoid Direct Start'. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 16 | 35m | |||
3 |
★ Nautilus
Delicate start 2 metres right of A Bit... leads to ledge at 15 metres Climb the arete at the L end of the wall to finish. A yellow Alien was essential protection. Original route finished up buttress left of A Bit Of The Old One-Two. FA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter (alt), 1985 | 18 | 35m | |||
4 |
Jackass Crack
Quite good with a surprisingly technical bulge. The bulging crack 2 metres right of Nautilus and 2 metres left of the large tree. After the crack, go right through overlap and then back left. FA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 17 | 35m | |||
5 |
The Last New Route at Arapiles
Good technical start. Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Jackass Crack', behind gum. Up crack to overhang which is passed on left. Go right through overlap and then back left to easy finish. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 18 | 35m | |||
6 |
Suffragette
Crack and ramp 1 metre right of The Last New Route At 'Arapiles' then easy overlap. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 16 | 35m | |||
7 |
Punks for Jesus
Bottomless thin crack 2 metres right of 'Suffragette', finishing straight up. FA: Charlie Creese, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 22 | 35m | |||
8 |
Dutch Oven
Line 5 metres right of 'Suffragette', 8 metres right of gum. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 16 | 35m | |||
9 |
Altered States
Obvious diagonal facing Huey. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 10 | 35m | |||
10 |
America After the Bomb
Direct line up and across 'Altered States'. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985 | 13 | 17m |
1.7. Spellbinder Area 17 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753292, 141.838412
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area.
The routes from 'Young, Old and Amputees' to 'Is It About A Bicycle?' are accessed via a scramble on a boulder, from the track. This area from the ledge is called Angel Buttress.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ A Short Crawl in the Pharos Gully
Deceptively tricky. Start on the track at the next little face up the hill from Traffic below a diagonal ramp. Up ramp then tiny corner just left of arete. Swing right around arete and up wall. It is also possible to start the climb a metre or two further right and go up to the end of the ramp. The climb has also been started much further right. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1988 | 19 | 12m | |||||
Angel Black TerraceScramble right from the base of "A Short Crawl in The Pharos Gully" to a terrace. There is a rap anchor above Angel Black. | ||||||||
3 |
Young, Old and Amputees
Up the centre of the left-hand face on the terrace. FA: Pat Ford, David Spike, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1997 | 20 | 12m | |||||
4 |
Jack-a-Dandy
Start at the left hand of two corners where the two walls on the terrace meet, a couple of metres right of "Young, Old and Amputees". The corner. FA: Keith Lockwood, Jack Ford & Tim Lockwood, 1997 | 6 | 12m | |||||
5 |
★ Angel Grinder
Commemorates an artistic disfiguration. Wall between 'Jack-a-Dandy' and Angel Black. Protection sparse on bottom bit. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard. Noughties., 2000 | 20 R | 12m | |||||
6 |
★ Angel Black
Good wall which is harder than it looks. Up centre of south-west facing wall, right of 'Jack-a-Dandy' to DBB FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1987 | 15 | 12m | |||||
7 |
★ Act in Haste
Good rock, protection was thought to be a bit funky. Wall just right of Angel Black has a prominent flake starting a few metres up. Climb diagonally right up to flake and follow it. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1987 | 18 | 12m | |||||
8 |
★ Clockwork Angels
Start on low prow of rock 1m right of 'Act In Haste'. Gambol upward to the low roof (possible low cam if desired), and clip the first bolt. From the second bolt, a blind move to the right, around the arête (for a grade 21 move right again and up 'Is It About A Bicycle?'), then head straight up with a foot on either side to clip third bolt and up to finish. FFA: Robert Mudie, 5 Mar 2017 | 22 | 12m, 3 | |||||
9 |
★ Is It About A Bicycle?
More good rock. Starts around the arete right of 'Angel Black'. maybe wear a rope for the scramble around. Follow flake diagonally left to fine crack just right of arete and follow this. FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Mack & Heather Phillips, 1991 | 15 | 12m | |||||
Back to the walking track | ||||||||
11 |
★ Traffic
Short, steep and well-protected. Nice line just left of 'Drivetime'. At top reach back right to lower-off shared with 'Drivetime'. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1987 | 20 | 7m | |||||
12 |
★ Drivetime
Short, sharp pump, almost always in the shade. Continue up track beyond 'Spellbinder' to a steep wall right on the track with a couple of fixed hangers. Steep wall past 2 BR leads to an easier finish (medium cam, red Camalot or similar) and lower-off. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 1997 | 22 | 8m, 2 | |||||
13 |
Danger Danger Will Robinson
Arete left of Spelbinder, starting from right. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jim Thomas, 1983 | 23 X | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★★ Spellbinder
Great, clean-cut corner just a few metres off the track. Take some big gear. Bolt anchor at the top. FA: Phillip Stranger & Rob Taylor, 1967 | 17 | 27m | |||||
15 |
Free Fingers
Desperate. Start as for "Spellbinder". Go up Spellbinder for 8 metres to ledge. Move right, up short, left-facing corner and over bulge to bolt (#4RP placement en-route). Move right again then up to easier climbing. rap as for Spellbinder FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986 | 28 | 20m, 1 | |||||
16 |
★ Adios Amigos
Great line with vicious crux. Up arete right of Spellbinder past a bolt, finishing up crack left of summit block. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 25 | 27m, 1 | |||||
17 |
Twinkle Toes
Supposed to be desperate. Start as for 'Adios Amigos' then move right and up past 2 BR FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1983 | 27 | 20m, 2 | |||||
18 |
The Astroman of Arapiles
Up the Lockwood Slot! Hopefully not it's final name. Has nothing in common with its namesake. The inverted funnel just right of Twinkle Toes. Climb the initial wall and move back into the depths of the Hardly Slot and up until possible to chimney horizontally back out. When possible pull onto the right arete and bridge up (as for finish of Antiquity). FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2012 | 16 | 25m | |||||
19 |
Antiquity
Interesting climbing, and a bit of a soft touch for the grade, but gets little attention. Another shady option for a warm day. Right of Spellbinder and just right of Adios Amigos is a narrow chimney. Just right of this is a left-leading crack. Take left-leading crack to a rest just right of chimney, below obvious hanging block. The block looks quite dodgy so swing up into crack on right and up right side of the slender buttress until able to move back left and go up, to finish at the top of the chimney on the left. Abseil from large tree (25m) FA: Peter Cunningham, Andrew Webb, Glenn Donohue & Iain Sedgman, 1984 | 19 | 22m |
1.8. Cheops Buttress 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753199, 141.839177
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
There is some very minor potential for climbing on the rock between here and the Spellbinder area but it should be ignored. Some climbing has been done but it isn't worthwhile and accessing the rock could create erosion problems for the walking track. | ||||||||
2 |
★ Family Food
Vague, left-leading seams up the middle of the wall left of "Fly By Night" FA: Roland Foster & Mark Moorhead, 1983 | 22 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★ Void
Unlikely with a committing finish. Take plenty of small wires. Start as for "Fly By Night". Bridge up chimney then pull onto wall and follow left-leaning flake just left of Fly By Night. FA: Clive Curson, 2001 | 19 R | 15m | |||||
4 |
★ Fly By Night
A good, pumpy route with some suspect rock. Start on the left wall at the back of the chimney. Bridge up the chimney (purists may decline to bridge) to start then pull into steep left-leaning groove. FA: Keith Egerton & Chris Baxter, 1986 | 19 | 20m | |||||
5 |
★ Bett
From the highest point in the floor of the gully, scramble onto ledges then bridge up the chimney. When it narrows, head for and go up inside of chockstones. Belay on top of chockstones at rap anchor. FA: Ben Wright, Heather Murray & Amber Blodgett, 25 Dec 2015 | 10 | 18m | |||||
6 |
★ Hunting For Swedish Fish
Walk through to the back of the gully where the floor ends at an edge. Up into a scoop in the right wall, then rightwards up ramp and corner. Exit left to belay on boulder ledge. Be wary of the rock. Descent: scramble through (suggest staying roped up) to the rap chains above Fly By Night. FA: Ben Wright & Amber Blodgett., 26 Nov 2017 | 5 | 18m | |||||
7 |
The Great Circle Route
On the wall directly opposite "Fly by Night". Scramble up to the large scoop with the right trending crack. A bouldery move into the scoop. Move up and left, following the edge of the scoop. Traverse right underclinging the top of the scoop before pulling through the lip onto an easy topout. Cross chockstone to "Fly by Night" anchors. Gear is sparse, but adequate and bomber. FA: Steve Greig & Mark Baker, 15 Feb 2018 | 19 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★ The Only Way To Fly
Climb flakes 2 metres left of "Gwen" to overhang and finish up flake and wall above. FA: Chris Baxter & Keith Egerton, 1985 | 17 | 15m | |||||
9 |
★ Gwen
Steep, juggy corner on right edge of chimney. FA: Heather Phillips, Kieran Loughran & Keith Egerton, 1981 | 11 | 20m | |||||
10 |
★★ Cheops
A nice climb making its way up the twin cracks right of Fly By Night Gully. Originally started at Chemistry Class but that is pretty hard. Select guide says to start from a convenient tree just downhill from the entrance to "Fly By Night" gully but this start is hard, poorly protected and accessing it risks erosion to the track. Better to start at the arete on the outside edge of "Fly By Night" gully. Gain the ledge, then up left-hand crack for a few moves then move into steep right-hand crack and go up. FA: Rod young & Kevin Otten, 1979 | 19 | 20m | |||||
11 |
★ Chemistry Class
Hard seam to ledge, step left and follow the line into the finishing crack of "Cheops". Start: Start at thin, left-leading seam down right from "Cheops". FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983 | 22 | 25m | |||||
12 |
★★ I'm A Little Monster
Seam right of 'Chemistry Class' (crux), step left and go up wall of big bums, trending right. FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 23 | 35m | |||||
13 |
★ Long Hair And Great Coats
A novelty start leads to an intimidating finish. Start under the massive chockstone in the gully below the "Cheops" buttress. Climb up to and through the hole between the chockstone and the face. Up shallow black corner to old fixed peg. Continue straight up steep wall which is slightly run-out. FA: Greg Pritchard & Jon Muir, 1993 | 13 | 35m | |||||
14 |
★ Hendor
Essentially a variant finish to "Long Hair And Greatcoats". It originally started by moving around the right side of the huge chockstone but that is worthless. Start as for "Long Hair And Greatcoats". Follow Long Hair And Greatcoats to manky old peg at top of shallow black corner. Make a committing move left and then up interesting thin crack to top. FA: Daryl Carr & Ken Readwin, 1967 | 12 | 36m | |||||
15 |
Hendor Direct Finish
Could make a good second pitch for Turquoise. Could also be undergraded and runout. Start on big ledge above the jammed block that Hendor starts below. Climb up to small orange cave. Pull through righthand end and go straight up the wall, stepping right at the top. FA: Jon Muir & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 16 | 20m | |||||
16 |
Crab Walk
Hard to justify this one; essentially an indirect version of Hendor Direct Finish a quarter of a century later.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 23 Feb 2017 | 14 | 38m, 2 |
1.9. Ethereal Buttress 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.753311, 141.839385
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Wollongongalongdongbong
Inspired route naming. Start 10m up L from 'Today'. Right past PR then crack. FA: Mark Moorhead & Roland Foster, 1983 | 23 | 10m | |||||
2 |
★ Today
Crack and pod. Start: Start just L of the L arete of the main face, just behind a pine. FA: Kevin & Sue Otten, 1979 | 18 | 15m | |||||
3 |
★ Family Feud
Start 5m L of "Running on Empty". L past flake to BR (replaced 2014), crux to jugs, then traverse L and up face, runout towards the top. Can also finish R instead of L, which looks great. FA: Lincoln & Chris Shepherd, 1981 | 24 | 20m, 1 | |||||
4 |
★★ Running on Empty
Stem scoop, move R to join L trending line. Start: Start under the steep scoop. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Eddy Ozols, 1978 | 21 | 20m | |||||
5 |
★★ Ethereal
Gets rave reviews. Start 2m R of RoE. Rooflet into seam, L at ledge then back R to arete. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian & Andrew Martin, 1979 | 21 | 20m | |||||
6 |
★ Whacky-Did
Up 'Pibroch' for 4m then the groove on the L. Start: As for 'Pibroch'. FA: Keith Egerton, Stephen Burke, Allan Hope & Jane Wilkinson, 1984 | 18 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Pibroch
Shallow corner, step R past conifer, then trend R up wall or go straight up. Start: Start 2m R of E. FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1976 | 15 | 20m | |||||
8 |
Cyclops
Committing hand-traverse. Start in gully around right of 'Pibroch'. Hand-traverse left around an arete to bottomless crack and climb this. FA: Rod Young & Phillip McMillan, 1979 | 21 | 20m | |||||
9 |
Zub
Start 2 metres right of 'Cyclops' on left side of black cave and go up wall on spaced jugs. FA: Mike Law (solo), 1981 | 20 | 10m |
1.10. Pharos Gully Bouldering 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -36.752937, 141.839140
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
1.10.1. Ministry of fig pluckers 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -36.752941, 141.839131
description
Around the right-hand side of the Ethereal Buttress.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Ministry of fig pluckers | V5 | ||||||
2 | High traverse | V9 |