Log ascent

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★★ Gilt Edged 18

Grade context: AU
Length: 40m
Pitches: 2
Ascents: 231

TRAD

description

Start: Start 10m R of 'Cobwebs', at the smooth crack in the right wall at the mouth of the gully.

30m (18) Up the crack to ledge then jam the slick crack and left through the roof to next ledge and then belay at ledge.
10m (18) 'Steep' jamming to roof then headwall.

Route history

Jul 1977	First ascent: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76281, 141.84609

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

18	Assigned grade
18	★ A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
18	★★ Arapiles, Selected Climbs
20 [20 - 21] ++	grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 75 from 112 ratings.

Difficulty - 18

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 5 ratings.

Suggested Grade

Based on 5 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight	67	67
Flash	2	2
Red point	8	8
Tick	45	45
Pink point	1	1
Attempt	13	13
Target	5	5

Comment keywords

tired tough solid desperate crux sustained pumped hard cool exciting nice enjoyable fun fantastic stoked good classic super great awesome tricky scary runout fall awkward jugs crack rest roof steep stout dry jamming feet confusing interesting hands flake slippery

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Buy

ⓘ

Arapiles 444 Of The Best Climbing Guide

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Buy

ⓘ

Sublimb Climbs

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Buy

ⓘ