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Description:

An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world

Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.

  1. 43m 3 step onto ridge and up

  2. 27m 5 up and over pinnacle

  3. 20m 4 up wall to big ledge on right

  4. 30m 5 head on up

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, Nov 1963

Location:  

Located in Pinnacle Face approx:
Lat/Long: -36.752372,141.839151

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

5 Community registered grade
3 ★★★ RockGUIDE: Victoria
3 ★★★ A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
5 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
5 *** ★★★ ACA Route Register
5 ★★★ Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 81%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid overhung crux tough hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing great lovely classic superb awesome magic incredible super beautiful rad perfect exciting enjoyable scary fall runout exposed committing steep feet rest interesting awkward epic crazy short face easy crap bad vertical cruisy jugs

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Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Tiptoe Ridge (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.