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Flora and Fauna: Bird nesting near Eurydice area

Birds observed nesting near Eurydice. Climbing nearby routes (The Desired, Checkmate, etc.) appears to disturb them (Nov-2019).

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago

Access: Climbing not advised. SPA Area

See warning details and discuss

Created 6 months ago
1 18 33m
2 17 32m

description

A fine old classic that has just about everything in its two pitches. A great line with a fiery first pitch in an excellent position.

Start: On the E face of the 'Bard Buttress' there's a guano-stained recess about 25m off the ground, with a crack leading down R to the ground. Start under this crack.

  1. 33m (18) Up the crack to the niche past a very old BR, then head up and slightly R from the niche to a good ledge.

  2. 32m (17) A tricky steep move gains the long R-facing corner. Near it's top move R then up to the Bard Terrace.

Ann Pauligk's mid 1970s ascent, first go, was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

© (jellyfish)

Route history

18 Jul 1965First ascent: Bob Bull, Peter Jackson & Ted Batty

Warnings

19 Nov 2019 Warning Flora and Fauna: Bird nesting near Eurydice area
30 Apr 2021 Warning Access: Climbing not advised. SPA Area

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75723, 141.84553

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

18,17 Assigned grade
18 *** ACA Route Register
18 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
18 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
18 RockGUIDE: Victoria
18 [17 - 18] grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
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A
M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 80 from 282 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 176
Flash 9
Red point 7
Tick 127
Attempt 12
Target 13

Comment keywords

exposed scary fall frightening committing tricky intimidating enjoyable awesome sweet brilliant nice lovely cool amazing good pleasant magic fun classic fantastic great exciting beautiful super perfect superb lip awkward polished weird jamming steep easy epic slippery cruisy roof crack dry bail face jugs reachy rest vertical fist mantle hands feet fiddly layback short balancy sunny shady interesting technical desperate tough difficult pumped sustained struggle tired powerful hard solid crux challenging

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