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Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.

  1. 43m (12) Up the slab (some fiddly pro) to L facing corner. Up corner to ramp. Belay at top of ramp.

  2. 12m (12) Move around the arete, then up. Airy traverse L around the arete (grovel across or grab the undercling, lean back and find good holds above), and across the front face to belay on the nose.

  3. 20m (12, crux) Diagonally R across the face to a bottomless chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney.

  4. 15m (12) Up the steep juggy line to the Bard Terrace.

  5. 30m (12) Up the bottomless corner then R onto and up the wall.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Jim Newlands & Bruce Hocking, Mar 1965


Located in Bard Buttress approx:
Lat/Long: -36.757230,141.845526

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

12 Community registered grade
12 OZ Rock
12 RockGUIDE: Victoria
12 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
12 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
12*** Arapiles, Selected Climbs - 2008 2nd ed
12 *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 86%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained tough hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing classy great lovely wicked classic superb awesome stoked magic pleasant incredible super beautiful rad perfect brilliant exciting enjoyable intimidating runout tricky terrifying horrendous committing scary exposed chimney rest polished interesting awkward epic crazy roof hands layback short flake face undercling jamming jugs slabby crack steep feet sunny arete easy cruisy dry traverse

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Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Bard (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.