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South Face

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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Intimidating finale. The first pitch was retro-bolted and de-bolted, but currently has 1 FH. Start on top of the great flake that leans against the south corner of the Pharos.

  1. 20m (21) From top of giant flake go left past FH to bald arete and up this to ledge.

  2. 10m (22) Face and tiny corner 1 metre right of pitch 2 of "Trojan".

  3. 15m (24R) Step right and climb serious, closed, pocketed seam 2 metres left of arete then continue up face.

FA: Pitch 1 : Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd. Full climb : Moorhead & Roddy McKenzie, 1980

A baffling crux combined with gut-wrenching exposure. Start from the top of the second pitch of "Trojan".

FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Daniels, 1982

A good stylish pitch. The initial moves are committing and require lots of small wires. And some of the first holds are loose so check what you're pulling on. Combining this with the upper pitches of "Trojan" makes for a very good grade 21 climb. Start at the top of the huge flake.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977

Start as for Dazed And Confused then move right and directly up wall past some very loose flakes, finishing up the fine corner-ramp to ledge.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Daniels, 1982

Useless.

  1. 25m (19) Up Dazed And Confused for 4 metres. Traverse 6 metres right to large precarious flake and up to ledge.

  2. 20m (20) Up short crack to make hard move to ramp and follow this, heading up right.

  3. 20m (-) Up, step left to shallow corner and follow it.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1978

This is better but it's really a climb in its own right. Start at the first belay of Nuclear Free, on the traverse ledge.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Simon Purnell, 1979

The finger shredding line starting just left of the start to 'Mind Arthritis', then taking the very bouldery wall above it. 2 hard 2-move boulder problems with a virtual sit down rest between them mars a route with one of the best positions at Arapiles.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 2000

An outstanding climb taking the major line on the South Face. Quite finger intensive and very exposed. Originally climbed with a piton as the last gear - though this has now somewhat controversially been replaced with a bolt.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

Technically 23 but a runout above the roof has led to the grade being inflated. A great outing on the South Face, starting off the ledge of the finish to Dazed and Confused. Worth noting that this was established onsight by the first ascentionist.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1979

Starts as for Delirium Tremens but at the roof breaks right and traverse a couple of metres before launching straight up the face. Reportedly a tad runout in places, and rarely repeated.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Quite good climbing on the lower south-east face, the next little face up the hill from the Punks wall. Takes the face and then left into the prominent hanging corner. Double ropes help. Start on a small ledge below the middle of the face.

Up face a few moves then move right into left-leading diagonal and up to ledge. Traverse left, staying low, to below hanging corner. Move up to corner and then up corner/ramp a ways before finishing straight up to huge boulder.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman., 2000

Start on the south side of The Pharos, down right of Gunk In The Pimms, at the base of the gullybetweene Uncle Charlie and The Pharos. Up diagonal corner on arête to ledge then left and finish up Gunk in the Pimms.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 7 May 2016

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