A cliff-splitting weakness that is big on atmosphere but not necessarily enjoyment. The R rating is from the rock, not the gear. It has been known to calve huge blocks with the climber attached so be cautious. A 5 camalot will be appreciated.
Start: Start below the huge cleft.
42m (16) Up vegetated line and belay on the big terrace.
24m (18) Up the overhanging chimney with some doubtful rock.
24m (18) On up the line to below large cracked roof.
15m (20) No, don't walk off left, climb the roof crack. The original finish traversed out the left wall below the roof to the arete.
Don't listen to the haters. The last pitch has great gear and is 20. Bring a 6.
Aug 1967 | First ascent: Pitch 1 : Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst. |
---|---|
14 Jul 1974 | First ascent: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood some aids & variant finish 13. |
18 Apr 1976 | First ascent: roof finish : Greg Child & Andrew Thomson |
1978 | First ascent: Baxter & Stone removed the aids in. |
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
16,18,18,20 | Assigned grade |
18 | A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite |
20 | ★ Arapiles, Selected Climbs |
20 | ★★★Chris Ferre |
22 [21 - 22] ++ | grAId |
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Overall quality 80 from 20 ratings.
Based on 2 ratings.
Based on 2 ratings.
Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780987526427
This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.
Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9780987087461
444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!
Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Date: 2011
ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
Ryan on ★★★ Five Fingered Mary 20 - 20230408_153830.jpg
Ryan Colley on ★★★ Five Fingered Mary 20 - 20230408_164623.jpg
★★★ Five Fingered Mary 20 - Pitch 2 guano chandelier.jpg
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