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Description:© (kieranl)

Start: Start at a flake 19 metres right of 'Lamplighter'.

  1. 20m (18) Fat, steep flake with hard steep crack immediately left of it. step left to join crack at niche then up into 'Lamplighter' below bulge. Over bulge and belay.

  2. 15m (22) Follow thin corner-flake above, just left of the start of 'Judgement Day', (this is the left side of the sort of pillar and up into white corner) to belay in 'Lamplighter' level with 'Parallels'.

  3. 25m (14) Walk off left is not possible! Continue up Lamplighter or downlead to anchors on Braindrops

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Glenn Tempest & Seamus Brennan, 1981


Located in The Pharos approx:
Lat/Long: -36.753710,141.841532

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

21 Community registered grade
21 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
22 ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 50%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

great weird steep flake crack

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