Under Flinders Lane Wall

Access: Climbing not advised. SPA Area

Wait for outcome of ParkVics survey.

See warning details and discuss

Created 3 years ago




The section of the wall underneath Flinders Lane. (ie The L end of Tiger Wall).

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Tiger Wall Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).


5 minute walk from the campground.

Descent notes

Walk L along Flinders Lane. Go down into Ali Baba's cave then down and up through a tunnel that brings you out at the top of Ali's. Downclimb or rap down Ali's.

Alternatively take the rap route down Ab Fab. 3x30m abseils (or only 1x30 and 1x55m if you have two 60m ropes). Be aware of people climbing below, they have precedence. The bolts are just over the edge on a clear area of Flinders Lane immediately below Bong Tree on Seneca Wall. The bolts are not visible until you poke your head over the edge (if you are contemplating a scary approach through scrub down onto a slab you are looking at the wrong anchors), . Place a cam to protect the step down.

There are currently additional old anchors on the Ab Fab descent catering for parties with a single 50m rope but don't rely on them being there.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 2 30m
2 11 30m
3 10 30m
4 10 28m

Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.

  1. 30m (2) Easy slab to the start of the chimney.

  2. 30m (11) The slippery chimney then head a bit left to belay (old pitons).

  3. 30m (10) Exciting. Head up the steep groove on the L wall, move right (though not quite into the chimney) and continue up the L wall. Exciting moves lead around the L side of the giant chockstone. Belay above. (An inferior alternative is to return to the chimney from the belay).

  4. 28m (10) Up the L wall, heading slightly left and finishing up the final moves of 'Bard'. (Again, sticking to the chimney is inferior, and involves plenty of loose rock and vegetation.)

Monster chasm

FA: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964

  1. 18m (2) As for Eagle Cleft to base of chimney.

  2. 32m (19) Up Eagle Cleft direct chimney for 15m, bridge out and step on to right wall past bolt (19) up flake and traverse 5m to belay at chains.

  3. 17m (19) Directly up past loose blocks(pinned) to guano under roof. Exciting and exposed moves past 2 bolts to bolt belay.

  4. 22m (15) directly up wall for 18m then traverse right for 3m to belay as for new tricks.

  5. 25m (14) Directly up and through overhang past bolt on central buttress to bolt belay.

FA: Geoff, amp; Maureen Little & Pat Ford, Jun 2017

1 10 46m
2 12 25m
3 12 30m
4 25m

Start: Start as for The Bard (which is described on the 'Bard Buttress' page).

  1. 46m (10) As for p1 of The Bard.

  2. 25m (12) Step R from the belay across 'Eagle Cleft'. Above the big roofs on the bottom left side of 'Tiger Wall' there are two major diagonals going up the left side of the wall. You meet them here in 'Eagle Cleft', where they are about 4m apart. Take the lower diagonal to a belay ledge.

  3. 30m (12) Continue up R along diagonal for 8m, then go L over a small nose. Go up the wall then R into the start of a chimney and climb it to a belay.

  4. 25m (-) Chimney upwards to Flinders Lane.

FA: John Bennett & Greg Martin (alt), 1964

Pitch 4 Variant: At the belay do not move right into the chimney. Instead step left for about 2-3m then follow an obvious line trending slightly left for a full 50m pitch. This is an obvious line that is quite prominent as a crack line on the cover of Louise Shepherd's guide book to 'Arapiles'

FA: Mark Witham & Deb Churches, 2000

Spectacular climbing on the 'Swansong' wall. Steps left from a roof above the 'Hawk' traverse, then finishes up a hanging corner high on the right-hand tower.

  1. 15m (2) Scramble up to the base of chimney.

  2. 35m (12) Up the chimney. When it ends move to the right face ledge and traverse for about 15m till a stance under small overhang.

  3. 30m (14) Up to a prominent nose with a 1m roof about 6m up and step left across the void underneath it and traverse another m or 2. Then up easily and and not very right at all to the orange rock (iffy rock and gear in places). Bolts on ledge.

  4. 30m (13) Traverse right 8-10m and up to the groove in the arete (looks mossy, but is not too bad and in a great position), past bolt and straight up to Flinders Lane.

FA: Geoff Little, Keith Lockwood & Maureen Little, 24 Jul 2015

Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'

  1. 30m (-) As for EC.

  2. 20m (12) As for EC then take the Hawk diagonal to the R for 10m.

  3. 22m (14) Step L over bulge then up thin crack. At roof move L to arete and up.

  4. 20m (14) Smooth wall and groove, trend L.

  5. 25m (14) Overhang then easy finish to Flinders Lane.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1974

A monster girdle. Why would you bother.

Start: Start as for EC.

Marvelous if you love 300m of downclimbing.

  1. 30m as for Eagle Cleft.

  2. 33m As or Hawk.

  3. 39m Traverse R to a crack, then mantleshelf downwards(wha-a-a-t?) until it's possible to reverse Kaiser's 3rd pitch.

  4. 30m Pitch 3 of Resignation, but move R above overhang to a narrow ledge.

  5. 18m Go behind obvious block, downclimb arete, along a ledge, then bridge across a 2m gap.

  6. 34m Along Kestrel's ledge, step down and climb across to Yo-Yo's third belay

  7. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

  8. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

  9. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

  10. Meander R past Syrinx and the Wobble

FA: Chris Baxter & Daryl Carr, 1968

Double ropes are mandatory as pitch 1 takes a devious wandering line through some daunting territory. Also note that pitch 1 can be climbed in isolation as there is a rap anchor just right of the first belay.

Start: Start just R of 'Eagle Cleft', at the top of the easy initial slabs.

  1. 25m (23) Through the guano stained roof, L and up slabby corner to bulge, then R into a L-leaning corner. Up this then short slab to ledge.

  2. 10m (22) The face just L of an obvious nose, then small corner to a stance.

  3. 40m (-) Up L to arete and big ledge.

  4. 22m (-) The nice L-leading corner on the R wall of 'Eagle Cleft'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff (although p4 was previously done by Mike Law & Glenn Tempest), 1978

A straighter version of pitch 1 but you'll probably still want double ropes.

Start: Start as for 'Fall Out'.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Robin Miller, 1983

Pitch 1 of this route can be climbed in isolation as there is a rap anchor at the first belay.

Start: Start as for 'Fall Out'.

  1. 25m (23) Through the gauno roof as for 'Fall Out', then slime your way R into the next corner. R around roof then up.

  2. 30m (24) Move L to gain a R-leaning flake with difficulty. Step L to next flake and up to stance on arete.

  3. 20m (-) Easily up to big ledge.

  4. 20m (21) Straight up the arete, R of 'Fall Out' p4.

FA: p4: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd

FA: p2: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young

FA: p1: Chris Shepherd & Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

Another worthless traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone & Chris Baxter, 1977

wonderful little companion route to Barnstormer. Breaches the roofline 1 ½ metres left of Barnstormer, past a bolt, some trad gear then a second bolt, before tending rightward for the last two body-lengths to Barnstormer’s anchors.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Jun 2016

Start: Start between LFI and FoaHTR.

  1. 30m (24) The slab to the crack through the big roof. Out this then the bulge above. Move L to the LFI rap anchor.

  2. 40m (-) This pitch is just a ramble up to Flinders Lane, so don't bother and just rap off. For the record you can also traverse L into 'Eagle Cleft' and reverse it.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978

A very technical ceiling. Take a #4 Friend for the wide slot at the end. The prominent roof crack left of The Good... Scramble up to belay just below roof. Undercling left past two fixed wires to the wide slot. Back aid to descend (no in-situ anchor).

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Peter Watson, 1977

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

A better way to get to the crux at the top of the first pitch.

Start: Start 2m L of 'The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly'. Up the easy slab then a thin crack (this bit goes at 18). Join the original first pitch for it's final cruxy corner

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992

1 20 35m
2 20 15m
3 50m

Pitch 1 has seen a few very serious falls, but the protection is quite ok if you take care to eliminate directional forces on the crux pro. If you don't know how to do this, then this route might deserve a "serious" rating.

Start: About 25m R of 'Eagle Cleft' there is the first significant weakness in the big roof. Start under this.

  1. 35m (20) Up long slabby crack to beneath a short steep corner. Make sure you set good directional pro here as the crux wires can be susceptible to outwards force. Cruxy moves up the corner to a ledge.

  2. 15m (20) The intimidating steep crack through the bulge above climbs beautifully. You'll reach a cave with a rap anchor (50m to the ground).

  3. 50m (-) Don't bother with this, rap off instead. Up mossiness then into a polished chimney which leads to Flinders Lane.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Peter Cohn & Fred Langenhorst, 1968

This looks to be the original finish to the route and not a FA. Go up R from the second belay to a bird eyrie, then steeply through a niche to reach the face of a narrow buttress.

Start: Start at the 2nd belay of 'The Good, The Bad and The Ugly'

FA: Wade Stevens & Tim Day, 1996

The steep bits look like a hoot, shame about the rest. Previously said to be a 30m route which was certainly wrong. The total height to Flinders Lane is 100m. The difficult section finishes after about 50m.

Start: Start as for TGTBaTU.

  1. 20m (15) Climb up TGTBaTU then belay while you're still below the roof on the right.

  2. 30m (26) Move R under roof, then crank out it past a piton and sling, which by now will be rubbish if they're even there at all. Now head R up a flake above and through the next roof. Continue up the wall above (or, more conveniently, move L to the rap anchor atop pitch 2 of TGTBaTU).

FA: Mark Moorhead & Roddy McKenzie, 1980

Start: Start 8m L of 'Marbuck'.

  1. 20m (18) The seams in slab up to the V slot. Despite the previous description, there's not really a ledge here and it's not 20m so you may as well keep climbing.

  2. 20m (24) Up to roof and cruise out it to a tough move at the lip and anchor above. This is also not 20m, run them together for 30m pitch. Can rap off here.

  3. 15m (23) L then up crack and wall to roof. Blast out the impossible looking corner/roof on your L, using spaced pockets. It looks like you'd be very close to the final steep section of 'Into the Black' here. Once over the roof it's probably best to try to move left to the rap anchor atop pitch 2 of TGTBaTU. Otherwise doddle another 40m to Flinders Lane.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead (alt), 1980

Start as for Out of the Blue but go right around the roof rather than through it, then back left to rap station. Apparently thin on gear.

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, May 2015

This fantastic route should be far more popular now that rap anchors have been added to eliminate the crappy third pitch and long walk off. If you like your ankles unbroken and just want to do the awesome second pitch, you can skip the bold start by doing any of the pitches on either side.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Marbuck', immediately below the main line followed by 'Marbuck' pitch 1.

  1. 30m (22) The start is the serious bit. Boldly up the unprotected seam to join the crack of 'Marbuck', and continue up this to a ledge with a bolted anchor. You can rap off from here (30m).

  2. 15m (24) An awesome pitch. Up the vague corner L of the big roof on 'Marbuck' pitch 2, then join a crack which doglegs steeply up R to rejoin the original. Finish at a rap station (20m to first belay, or 50m to the ground).

  3. 45m (15) Don't do this crappy loose exit pitch (but if you must: finish as for Kaiser).

FA: Kim Carrigan & Simon Parsons (Chris Peisker had previously done the independent bit at the start around), 1977

A very very big roof, which will hopefully see more action since the addition of a rap anchor which eliminates the manky 3rd pitch and long descent.

Start: About 10m R of TGTBaTU is the next major crackline up to and through the roofs. It fizzles down to a seam near the ground: start 2m R of this seam.

  1. 33m (23) Bouldery past a piton to the low roof, then move L into the main crack line. Up this to a ledge, with rap anchor (30m to ground).

  2. 15m (24) Power out the huge overhang past rubbish pitons and fixed wires. Continue up the icky wide crack above, to the next rap anchor (20m to the first belay or 50m to ground).

  3. 45m (15) A crappy loose exit pitch, as for 'Kaiser'.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor (aided), 1968

Starts a pitch up and climbs wall between Marbuck and You Can't Stop the Gobble - see topo. Belay on ledge Up the orange wall and through the bulge (crux) then left across the steep wall R of Marbuck. Rap as for Marbuck. Two bolts.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2015

Thin crack, move R under roof, then pull through roof. Up wall to ledges and traverse R along these to the 'No Future' rap anchor.

Start: Start 1.5m R of' 'Marbuck'.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

1 15 38m
2 15 15m
3 30m
4 25m

The first 2 pitches are great but the rest is ordinary.

Start: Start at the next strong crack line about 10m R of 'Marbuck'.

  1. 38m (15) Up the crack then, a few metres after it starts taking you diagonally L (towards Marbuck's big roof), traverse back R along a horizontal weakness to a ledge.

  2. 15m (15) Up steepish wall to breach the overhangs between two fairly prominent noses of rock.

  3. 30m (-) Traverse 10m L to the crack on 'Marbuck' pitch 3 (you might want to step down for the last bit). Up the crack then L.

  4. 25m (-) Up the chimney/gully thing to Flinders Lane.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1966

The brittle flake on the L wall of the chimney/gully of 'Kaiser' p4.

Start: Start at Kaiser's third belay.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Phillip Armstrong, 1978

Classic. Start up first two pitches of Kaiser, finish up top two pitches of Resignation (15,13, 15,12).

The "Other" linkup of Kaiser and Resignation.

Climb the first two pitches of Resignation to belay just above the horns. Take the fun traverse L to finish up the last two pitches of Kaiser.

In p1 of Kaiser, go direct up the crack instead of traversing left and dog-legging right.

Start: Start as for 'Kaiser'.

  1. 30m (18) Up Kaiser's crack and follow it straight up (i.e. don't veer up slightly left and then traverse back right).

  2. 16m (19) Go up to the roof and pull through it just to the L of the two prominent noses on 'Kaiser' p2.

  3. 50m (22) Follow a weakness which leads up R from the belay, then finish easily. Originally said to be 25m but it's a full 50m to Flinder's Lane.

FA: p2 Kevin Lindorff & Phillip Armstrong, 1978

FA: p3 Roddy McKenzie, Craig Nottle & Graham Sanders, 1981

FA: p1 Louise Shepherd & Julia Butler, 1989

An eye catching and intimidating route. Quite a committing lead, but with good gear available if you have the skill. NB the tombstone block has now been made relatively safe (pinned).

Start: Start 2m R of K.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Little & Eddy Ozols, 1978

Up 'No Future' to the bulge then, instead of traversing R, continue straight up to a (new) bolt (as of late May 2015). Pull the bulge and step R to finish up the line.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day & Nick Neagle, 1991

Fantastic climbing and very, very tough. The route was done with a fixed wire to protect the start - the wire is no longer there so you may want to place it on rap. Up the thin seam on the orange streak, L and up flake, head R then back L and over roof.

Start: Start 6m R of NF.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1984

Shallow groove to thin crack, then L to next crack and up it.

Start: Start 2m R of VGU.

FA: Eddy Ozols, Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1980

Up the shallow L facing corner for 10m and rejoin the original. Slightly fiddly gear.

Start: Start just L of R.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1977

1 10 35m
2 15 15m
3 15 23m
4 11 23m

A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top.

Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).

  1. 35m (10) Up the rib, trending a bit L near the top to a good ledge above No Future's rap anchor. With a 60m rope and long runners you can string the 1st two pitches together.

  2. 15m (15) Head for the main weakness in the big roofs: a recess between two prominent noses (shared with 'Kaiser' p2). Belay just above them.

  3. 23m (15) Climb right to good holds and up through the steepness, slightly runout. Once over the bulge head up left to the belay.

  4. 23m (11) Trend R up to Flinders Lane.

FA: Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage & Ann Pauligk, 1966

The direct line up P2 of Resignation and into the bulge of P3.

P1: As for Resignation.

P2: Instead of heading left to the weakness, continue straight up on orange rock to reach the bottom of the bulge on P3 of Resignation. Continue to Resignation's belay.

P3: Follow P4 of Resignation.

Start at the 1st belay of 'Resignation'.

  1. 15m (15) Up the wall into a loose orange corner, which is about 5m R of the two prominent noses on p2 of the original.

  2. 55m (15) Follow the original p3 R and through the juggy overhang. Instead of trending back L, trend R up the vertical face at one o'clock for 20m via continually interesting moves and equally interesting runouts. It then eases briefly before a final tricky short undercut corner to gain Flinders Lane.

FA: Pitch 2 RHV Glenn Tempest & John Chapman, 1976

Trend rightwards into the hanging groove via a hard boulder problem (wires then bolt). Further technical moves (2 more bolts plus small cam) lead to easier ground and lower-off.

Start: Start just right of 'Resignation' 1st pitch.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2004

Start right of Tough Titties below a rooflet / blob sticking out at about 6m with a bolt below it. Up to the blob and past it then up and left to chains. Nice rock.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Duncan McGregor, 2012

A variant start to 'Harrier'.from the left.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Craig Nottle & Roddy Mackenzie, 1983

The roof is cool. Said to be 100m, which looks right, but the pitch lengths don't add up so you'll have to make do.

Start: Start 5m L of 'Underneath the Colours'.

  1. 24m (20) Bouldery crux up the blank-looking smooth wall past a fixed sling. Easier jugs follow.

  2. 18m (-) Up onto foothold on bulge. Trend slightly L to stance.

  3. 27m (-) Smooth wall to red roof. Bridge out to a blind reach around the lip and swing on the jug. 'Doddle' onwards.

FA: Kevin Lindorff later added the roof.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve (aided the start & veered around the roof), 1973

Start 3 metre right of 'Harrier'. Head diagonally left up smooth orange wall to join 'Harrier' at the bulge.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Lincoln Shepherd, 1979

A very technical and super reach dependent face route which is a tad bold to start. Used to be a very sandbagged 24 for many years. Solid for the current grade!

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

FFA: 1983

A classic Arapiles baby bum face route. Originally given 24 but since upgraded (rightly so) in line with Vanja's upgrade. Quite sustained and powerful.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

FFA: 2004

Just right of Bienenstich, slab moves up past a bolt to a crackline. Up this then L to the depression above Bienenstich. Up to second bolt and up glorious white wall on good holds to double ring bolt anchor.

The first section is probably a repeat of 'Underneath the Colours', but the top wall is new and very worthwhile. Maybe Underneath the Colours and Antiques Road Show should have their grades aligned seeing as they share a crux move at the first bolt.

You can also start up Ab Fab and traverse in above the first bolt for a great 18.

FA: Geoff Little, 2015

Great climbing in the first 25m - the rest is a bit dirty and easy, but OK climbing, and can be avoided by stepping back L to the DRB of Antiques Road Show. Start 8m L of Skylark. Up and a little L to a FH at 12m as for Antiques Road Show, then move up and R through the bulge about 4m R of the 2nd FH of Antiques Road Show. Continue straight up for 10m then step L to DRB unless you like the look of the very dirty 20m of moss above.

To avoid confusion - there are not 3 routes on this bit of wall. AR is a retro of the first 15m of this climb then Ab Fab comes in from the right and finishes up this climb to the Kestrel ledge.

FA: Doug Fife & Phil Steane, 1982

1 16
2 16

Great first pitch up face left of Skylark. Second pitch is a bit scrappy until a good finishing headwall.

  1. 55m (16) Start just left of Skylark and make your way up and left to left side of bulge. Continue up face more easily but with a couple of runouts to good ledge and ring-bolts..

  2. 33m (16) Easy face up left to bolt rap anchors, go left a bit then up and back right under bulge then up right side of bulge and up towards left side of headwall. Committing moves up onto headwall until able to traverse right and eventually to rap anchor at Flinders Lane,

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Little & Keith Lockwood, 2015

More direct second pitch to Ab Fab

FA: Bec Hopkins & Simon Mentz, 13 Jun 2016

This good climb starting up the left arete of 'Kestrel' is probably best done with a long first pitch. A lot of parties take advantage of the rap anchor and skip the second pitch or do 'Kestrel Direct Finish'. However the second pitch has some good climbing, especially on the crux overhang low down. Noddy graded the top section 12 back in the day but is now unable to identify where it went. They may have gone much further right or maybe just a sandbag. Now has a lower-off on top pitch to avoid bushes and loose rock on exit - 60m rope mandatory.

  1. 55m (16) Climb arete left of 'Kestrel' until it is more logical to continue up the seam and face left of the arete to the chain belay of Kestrel.

  2. 30m (16) Traverse right from the belay, above Kestrel's corner, and up a little to ledge, up crack in the steep wall. Then take the right-hand option up to the final overhangs. Climb these, moving right and up to anchor. 30m lower off to anchor for Diving Deep / Surfacing. 55m (or 30m + 25m) abseil to ground from there.

FA: Matt Taylor, Keith Lockwood & Nick Andronis, 1975

Straight up above the Kestrel rap station. Move left and mantle the ledge (crux). Straight up from there, sneak right under the roof and continue up mildly overhanging rock to Flinders Lane.

FA: Peter Holmes & Meg Holmes, 1996

The left wall of Kestrel. Scramble up the first 3 metres to the alcove. Small corner then past bolt to seam and follow this for 18m to join arete, eventually meeting Skylark for the final few metres

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Jul 2015

A very long, sustained, bridging classic that requires a three-dimensional approach. The polished corner facing north (morning shade). If you have only a 50m rope belay in the alcove 3m off the ground to make sure you don't run out of rope. There is a rap station on the L when you get to the ledge (50m). Be careful of the large loose block at the belay. It seems well keyed in but treat with caution. Use similar caution with a few other blocks envcountered during the pitch.

If you only have a single rope, you can do two abseils (2x30m) from the DRB to the left atop Antiques Roadshow. Please don't use the old exit left up the gully to Flinders Lane as it acts as a funnel for rocks onto the climbs below. Consider Kestrel Alternate Finish as an easy way to get to Flinders Lane.

FA: Doug Hatt & Ian Guild, 1964

An easy pitch for parties wanting to get from Kestrel to Flinders Lane without an increase in grade.

From the belay at the top of the first pitch, step right and climb up right a couple of metres to a ledge system. Walk right across the mossy ledge system to the corner on the final pitch of Yo Yo and follow this to Flinders Lane. Make sure to place a good directional runner after the traverse.

Up the starting ramp as for Kestrel, step right up a few easy blocks the then left up left leaning shallow corner. Head directly up through shallow overlaps and towards the top keep 3 metres left of Pfeffernusse before a final reach right to the rap chains beneath large overlap.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ross Ellingwood, Mar 2018

After the rooflet on Supersonic Moose, continue straight into Kestral. It's the obvious thing to do.

FA: Wendy Eden & Louise Shapherd, 15 Sep 2018

As Flying Moose except keep left at top and gain crack in overlap 3 metres right of Kestrel. A trad anchor can be built here. Up through crack and gain rising right traverse to easy stance then up the left facing corner of Surfacing before avoiding the boulders above by stepping left into Kestrel for the final 8 metres or so to the Kestrel rap chains.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Jo Lee, 28 Mar 2018

Avoiding the crux of Pfeffernusse through starting as for Flying Moose and continue up a few easy block to beneath the slabby section, then finish as for Pfeffernusse.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Paul Graham, Mar 2018

Start 5 metres right of the Kestrel ramp beneath a bolt. Climb directly up past bolt and wall above to a more slabby section veering left to easy stance and shallow corner. Directly up to rap chains.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ross Ellingwood, Mar 2018

A good single pitch to a rap anchor or an approach to the pitches above, The first climb in the area, it was filthy, the exact start wasn't clear and it had a weak second pitch. Now the first pitch is cleaned and re-instated and we'll just forget about pitch 2.

Start between Kestrel and Yo Yo.

Up past BR towards little overlap then up into shallow corner on it's left side. Up line to major overlap at 25m, moving right below this to rap anchors.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980

Good climb up the faces between 'Kestrel' and 'Yo Yo' all the way to Flinders Lane. Start midway between these two routes, as for Velvet Green.

  1. 33m (20) Up past BR to little overlap then up into shallow corner on it's left side. Up line to overlaps at 25m. Do not not touch the huge blocks jammed under the overlap, instead move right (can belay at the rap anchor here but rope-drag would be a problem on next pitch) and through overlap past BR. Easily left to tiny ledge below left edge of headwall.

  2. 25m (19) Up into hanging, left-facing corner right of Kestrel for about 6 metres. Cross the right wall of the corner past BR to arete, or move a little higher before moving right. Up arete and over small roof (BR) and continue on water-washed rock to ledge. Up a further 5m to next ledge. The rap anchor for Diving Deep is just to the right if you've previously climbed the top pitch.

  3. 30m (16) Take the crack through the overhang and continue more easily up the right-hand option to lower-off just before Flinders Lane. This is the same as for the finish of Skylark. 30m lower-off followed by 55m (or 30m + 25m) abseil.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Robert Mudie, 26 Jan 2017

The central line up the wall has a lot of good climbing. Can be done as one long pitch. The bolt tally is for the top pitch.

  1. 25m Do 'Velvet Green', or Mother Brown.

  2. 30m 21 Step left from belay and through the first overlap past FH as for Surfacing, step right and up into shallow corner then swing back left and pretty much straight up to rap anchor.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Kieran Loughran, 5 Aug 2017

Good climbing on the top pitch which may be little easier with addition of a bolt.

Start as for Velvet Green and Mother Brown, midway between Yo Yo and Kestrel,

  1. 25m Do 'Velvet Green', or Mother Brown.

  2. 35m (22) Climb overlap past BR, as for Surfacing, and move rightwards and follow series of corners up to top right corner of overlaps. Step right, up wall 2 metres ('Ducks On The Pond' is very close on right) and traverse left to ledge. Off right end of ledge past BR up sustained seam to ledge system. Go left up the last little wall to rap anchor.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Louise Shepherd, 1988

Three bolts, two bulges and a slab. The middle bulge was climbed many years ago utilising a very dodgy big block (long gone). Up the initial moves on Velvet Green (bolt), to step slightly R to surmount the little bulge. Pull through the second larger bulge (bolt) and continue on up to a third bolt. Tiptoe up the final moves to the bolt anchors (as for Velvet Green).

FA: Glenn Tempest, Karen Tempest & Roxanne Wells, 4 Aug 2017

Climb the corner crack of 'Yo Yo' then continue directly up (rather than traversing R to the guano). Follow incipient crack directly up lichenous country to belay on ledge 2-3m L of Yo Yo's 3rd belay.

Start: Start at the 1st belay of 'Yo Yo'.

FA: Tim Day & Phil Robertson, 1997

The major left-facing corner facing 'Kestrel' is another well-trodden favourite. The second and third pitches can be fairly easily combined, especially if double ropes are used.

  1. 25m (13) Climb the corner to a block on the right just below the overlap.

  2. 13m (16) Short, technical layback flake then move right into chimney and up to stance. The wide crack leading directly into the chimney goes at the same grade but is not as good.

  3. 13m (15) Take the right-hand of the twin grey corners (The corner on left is 18).

  4. 40m (13) Go up 7 metres, left to skirt overhang and follow line up slightly right to Flinders Lane.

FA: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965

1 30m
2 24m
3 15 40m
4 18 12m
5 14m

This finish to the top of the cliff is a bit unbalanced but probably worthwhile. Maybe do it in conjunction with the grade 18 third pitch variant.

  1. 30m (-) From top of third pitch climb over bulge and continue up, veering slightly right.

  2. 24m (-) Through a break in overhangs then follow an obvious crack system up right.

  3. 40m (15) Follow line over 2 overhangs to below a prominent obstruction.

  4. 12m (18) The large overhang

  5. 14m (-) Onwards

FA: Daryl Carr & Chris Baxter, 1968

Quite an attractive climb up the steep narrow buttress right of 'Yo Yo'.

Start: Start as for 'Falcon'.

  1. 10m (-) Easily up the first pitch of 'Falcon'.

  2. 45m (23) Climb the diagonals on 'Falcon' then continue up the steep wall above past a couple of bolts (second is a bit offline) to rap station.

FA: Mike Law & Mark Colyvan, 1983

A good climb and a nice 1 pitch option in this area.

Start: Start right of 'Yo Yo' - the big gully.

  1. 10m (10) Climb up to the terrace vis the easiest route you can find. A good, well-protected grade 19 alternate pitch is the initial 7 metre crack of "They Shoot Pigeons Don't They" and then move left to the belay; just be wary of the big blocks on the ledge.

  2. 20m (18) Climb up the corner then step into the right hand line (left-hand line may be slightly easier but protection is more difficult). A few tricky moves lead to some very enjoyable climbing. Traverse up and right to the exit and rap-anchor.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norman Booth, 1973

A good line up the front of the buttress R of Falcon. Up the slippery crack (some find this the crux) to Falcon's ledge at about 8m. Step off this diagonally R past a bolt (shorter folks might find this the crux) then drift back L to a small corner and up slightly R to a juggy finish. Falcon's chains are just around the corner.

Start: Start at thin crack up the front of the buttress, 6m left of Phoenix.

FA: Peter Martin & Louise Shepherd, 1988

The left arete of Phoenix has a hard boulder problem low down amongst a lot of easier climbing.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1979

Another combination route. OK at the grade if you're in the area. Start up 'Phoenix' until past the bulge on the arete to the left and then follow the arete ('Problem Child') to the top of the buttress. Abseil down 'Nakablitz' (40m).

Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.

  1. 48m (11) Climb the corner to the top of 'Central Buttress'.

  2. 25m (8) Up and right to crack (The Eighth) and straight up this to large ledge.

  3. 20m (-) Walk to left end of ledge and up short tricky wall to righthand end of Flinders Lane (as for final pitch of The Eighth).

FA: Bruce Hocking & Ian Speedie, 1964

1 8 24m
2 9 25m
3 9 30m
4 8 20m
  1. 24m (8) Follow Phoenix for 8 metres to thread runner then out right and up past all 'Highway' 8 sign to shallow corner. Up to ledge.

  2. 25m (9) Gain the line just to the right and up to crawl through hole to ledge.

  3. 30m (9) Traverse 6 metres left to crack and up this to big ledge.

  4. 20m (8) Walk 12 metres left and up tricky wall to right end of Flinders Lane.

FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Robyn Lewis (via a harder pitch 2 variant), 1963

A way to the top of the cliff. Unfortunately it breaks down very quickly into an unpleasant gully.

20m (8) From the right end of Flinders Lane, climb a juggy corner into a chimney. Belay on second ledge. 45m (4) Up the chimney-gully.

FA: Greg Lovejoy & Bob Craddock, 1964

Quite pleasant climbing.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'The Eighth' at nice seams.

  1. 12m (19) Climb the seams then move left and belay on the ledge by the old 'Highway' 8 sign. Note that the seams further left have also been climbed.

  2. 30m (16) Move left and finish up the arete left of Phoenix (the original finish of Problem Child).

FA: Unknown, 2000

  1. 46m (11) Take the chimney-crack 6 metres right of 'The Eighth' which eventually leads into pitch 2 of 'The Eighth'. Belay on the ledge above the hole.

  2. 30m (11) Traverse 2 metres left then follow steep crack past peg to ledge. Continue up large corner to next big ledge. This was the original third pitch of 'The Eighth'.

  3. 20m (8) Traverse as for P4 of The Eighth.

FA: John McLean & Richard Schmidt.., 1966

Two good pitches. The easy top of pitch one can be a bit dirty.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'The Eighth Direct'.

  1. 25m (20) Thin cracks up wall to bulge. Over bulge and slab to belay.

  2. 15m (21) Thin face and step in overhang. Steeply up front of buttress. Easy traverse left to 'Nakablitz' rap-anchor.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992

Nice long pitch with multiple tricky sections

Climb orange crack 4 metres left of 'Syrinx', just right of GWDS. When it stops, step left to the next orange crack. Up easy ground to small orange R facing corner, step left and through overlaps 2 metres left of "interesting move" on 'Syrinx'. Up to 2nd belay on Syninx. Continue up that or roped traverse across to abseil on 'Nakablitz'.

FA: Recorded: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992

Goes quite a way up 'Syrinx' and then breaks out left and probably hits the 'Yo Yo' Variant finish at some point.

  1. 15m (11) Left front side of 'Syrinx' chimney. This is what most people climb as the first pitch of Syrinx these days.

  2. 45m (11) Up as for 'Syrinx' to old peg belay above the smooth wall (half way up Syrinx's 3rd pitch).

  3. 48m (15) Step left and climb sharp corner to overhang on left. Climb righthand side of overhang to second overhang. Climb straight up past guano to large ledge.

  4. 32m (15) Up thin crack to join left end of Syrinx's traverse. Finish up 'Syrinx'.

FA: Steve Hanson & Andrew Topolcsanyi (alt), 1994

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

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