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Description

Steep and pumpy with roof problems and a long traverse. Good in the wet.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Skyline Walls Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Follow the track uphill another 50m from Everyfin, Everyfin and take a faint path off to the R. After another 50m you'll find the boulder.

Coming down from the road, the turnoff for the track is about 100m down where the track turns sharply L.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Lean back and lock your fingers into an amazing roof crack. Swing around and up from there.

Sit start, climb up left side of the scoop and finish up as for "big dyno".

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Torture Chamber.