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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Skyline Walls Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

From Mari Buttress go up the gully past Dyslexia.

Descent notes

Scramble down on the L.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Up right side of big block on slabby terrace. Step right at bulge.

FA: Keith Lockwood

3m right of SS, Slab to weakness. Trend left up slabby rib and bulgy crack then juggy bulge

FA: Keith Lockwood

Slab and bulge right of SG. Finish through centre of upper bulge

FA: Keith Lockwood

Slab and bulge at right end of slabby terrace. Continue up yellow tinged corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood

Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Brian Luxford

This is probably what Noddy has written up as Marbles in Argus, but graded 11!. Start 4m left of Pure and Simple, just right of a flake sticking up out of the ground. Head straight up. Good gear and climbing the whole way.

FA: Sarah Natali & Wendy Eden, 2016

Supped to have a crack, but doesn't! 6m left of FOTR, 1m left of diagonal seam of Flying Foxes, behind a cherry ballart. Up wall, then vague juggy corner. Tricky down low. Was graded 8!

FA: Bruce & Rod Sutherland, 1984

Diagonal seam that doesn't quite reach the ground left of FOTR. Bouldery start, diagonal then wall right of the corner of Pure and Simple.

FA: Keith Lockwood et al.

Up the slab, going R and L a bit.

Start: Start just L of FotR.

FA: James Falla...with 5 on the blunt end!, 1985

From the block step L and up frictional slab.

Start: Start 10m L of the detached pillar, under a large block which is 1m up a grey wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Law, 1976

The slab, scary up high.

Start: Start just R of FotR.

FA: James Falla & Dave Mudie, 1986

Small corner, past BR, to ledge, then continue.

Start: Start 2m R of SUYS.

FA: Dave Mudie & James Falla, 1986

The weakness to the break, traverse L through roof and over.

Start: Start just L of JC, off the top of the detached pillar.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

Climb the R-facing corner (or the much better steep jugs 3m R), then go R under lower roof. Over lip into short corner then ledge on L. Now traverse 8m L then up. (The DF goes straight up from the corner at 20).

Start: Start off the top of the detached pillar.

FA: Mike Law, Peter Watson (DF by Lincoln Shepherd & Anthony Ryan), 1990

From the corner of John's Corner, step left then head up wall past bolt. The best way to do the route.

Up JC to it's top roof, then traverse R past old manky fixed gear, cams, and a runout, to join 'Cecilia'. It's worse to second than to lead.

Start: Start as for JC.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Another traverse which needs a strong second.

Start: Start as for JC.

  1. 20m (22) Up JC for 6m then R along subtle traverse line, below SL, to flake. Step down R to pedestal on 'Cecilia'.

  2. 30m (22) R to flake, slightly up, then further R to join 'Frontispiece'.

FA: P1 Kevin Lindorff, 1976

FA: P2 Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Face past BR to roof with manky old fixed gear, and straight over roof past another BR.

Start: Start 3m R of JC.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd (originally traversing off - the finish was added in), 1990

Reachy start past 2 BRs over bulge, then trend R. Tackle the roof 2m L of C at a weakness.

Start: Start just L of C.

FA: Parrish Robbins & Mike Fox, 1990

The crackline up the leaning yellow wall, joining the R facing corner at the roof. Don't trust the manky old aid bolts. 1 FH, 3 manky carrot bolts.

Start: Start off the detached pillar either by leaning across and climbing steeply up, or a committing, but significantly easier leap.

FA: Chris Baxter & Tim Hancock, 1970

FFA: Glenn Tempest, 1976

Crank up the line past PR to pedestal then roof, then L into shallow groove.

Start: Start 1.5m R of C.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Really very good. This is the logical way to address the space 5m R of Cecilia and if it were done first would be obvious sister-routes to Cecilia and Blind Ambition. Because of history, it has ended up as a link up of Intransience, Blind Ambition and Girls on Bikes.

Three distinct sections: the first is Intransience 's initial steep moves to a rest. Then moving L approximately 1.5m (where Intransience goes R) via nice moves through the tricky grey section and back R again to another rest. Finally directly up through the blank black section over the last RB.

There is an alternative L finish from the last big horizontal up an obvious flake between the described finish and Cecilia, however despite the climbing being easier, gear is non-existent.

FA: Christian Seger & Adam Syriatowicz, 1997

Committing traverse R gains ledge, then up R and up black wall.

Start: Start 10m R, and down from, 'Cecilia'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979

Short crack past PR to ledge on I, and up I to jug. Now slightly L to join flake. L at break and then up.

Start: Start down R of I.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Geoff Little, 1982

Bulging crack then traverse L to ledge. Head L and up very faint groove over bulge into WoH. Now go diagonally L to finish up 'Cecilia'.

Start: Start 1.5m R of BA.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

Involves a rubber chicken.

The Red Dwarf is the pinnacle opposite the one that Cecilia starts from. Descend by using your partner as an anchor on the opposite side as you rap off.

On the side facing Cecilia, climb low angled, juggy crack on left.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Deb Sweet, 1999

Heading left around the pillar, up undercut corner on left side of Gelf icon then up face.

FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999

On the East face (the one facing camp), left of the Gelf icon and corner of CoPLI is a line through a bulge. Be warned about rock and gear.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1996

On the left side of the main face (that faces camp) and left of ETGZ. Up to roof. Through the aforementioned roof, stepping left and up arete.

FA: The Cat, Kryten, Lister & Kochanski, 1999

Scramble down and around the corner left of ETGZ. Start left of right arete. Up and step left onto 'emohawk'. Then up slabby arete.

FA: Dwayne Dibbly & Ace Rimmer, 1996

Activity

Check out what is happening in Cecilia Wall.