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Showing 1 - 100 out of 118 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Deep Freeze Wall
22 Wonder What I'll Call This?

The line in the middle.

Start: Start in the middle of the small buttress uphill from 'Deep Freeze Wall'.

FA: Jon Muir & solo, 1985

Trad 10m
21 Saddle Sore

The weakness just L of a pedestal.

Start: Start 5m L of S.

FA: Mark Walters, Angela Emmerson & R Foster, 1985

Trad 10m
23 Strapping

Up to horizontal, left 1m, then reach to flake on bulge and up.

Start: Start 1m L of H.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Mark Walters, 1985

Trad 15m
23 Deep Blue

Where strapping stumbled off left into easier ground, step right, past bolt and direct to the top. Enough spice to make you think.

FFA: Eddy Mofadin, 2014

Mixed 18m, 1
24 Handshake

The flared handcrack.

Start: Start 4m L of DF.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Ian Anger, 1980

Trad 15m
27 Chill Pill

Face R of Handshake. At the second bolt (hard to clip) move L and into Handshake. The direct finish is an open project - maybe 30ish?

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2011

25 Deep Freeze

The leftwards diagonal. Not that well protected at the start, but a great little route.

It has been done starting in from the L, but it's harder and not as good.

Start: Start 2m L of the R arete of the wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Eddy Ozols, 1980

Trad 15m
24 Deep Throat

The vague line, needing small wires. Go R to arete at about half height, after which it eases substantially.

Start: Start 1m R of DF.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Trad 15m
Mari Buttress
14 Meanwhile...

Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss.

Start: Start 15m L of 'Megalomaniac'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Phil Wilkins, Steve Burke & Angela Emmerson, 1985

Trad 20m
26 Purgatory

Up past BR, take the bulge on the R, then more easily.

Start: Start below the sickle/crack of EA.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Trad 25m
21 Evans Above

Up M, L to sickle crack, then over roof.

Start: Start as for M.

FA: Mike Smith & Dennis Kemp, 1981

Trad 40m
26 Polygap

As for M then left past two BR - middle contrived - continue to clip one more BR.

Start: Start as for 'Megalomaniac'.

FA: FRA Hoskins & Frost, 1994

Mixed 36m, 3
14 Megalomaniac

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others!

FA: John Moore, 1967

Trad 36m
21 Power Crazy

Start up 'Megalomaniac' then move right and follow weakness, gear is a little fiddly at times, but there is plenty of it to keep you happy

FA: Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Rees & Louise Shepherd, 1981

Trad 36m
24 X Run It Out, Sucker

Up unprotected blank wall (23) to join PC for 3m, then R on poor slopes to join a line through the bulge.

Start: Start R of M.

FA: Jon Muir & Brigitte Muir, 1985

Trad 36m
26 The Best of Hollywood

Arete left of Mari. Clip bolt from Mari then return to ledge to reach holds.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Weigand, 1984

Trad 20m
17 Mari

Quite classic and good fun.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967

Trad 40m
22 R Devoid

Initial moves poorly protected.

Start: Start 3m R of M.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian (RHF by Jon Muir & Maureen Gallagher), 1985

Trad 40m
23 R Vacancy

Apparently this route had a peg, however that appears to have fallen out (the missing peg shouldn't stop you from getting on it though!).

Although it may look mossy, it was brushed clean in late 2015.

Start 2m R of 'Devoid'. Finish up the gully, before traversing right to the chains of Electric Warrior.

FA: Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1979

Trad 25m
24 Another One Bites the Dust

Bouldery blankness into vegetated crack.

Start: Start R of V.

FA: Mike Graham, 1980

Trad 40m
20 Electric Warrior

An excellent route with hard bits down low and up high.

Start: Start below the major corner crack on the right hand side of the wall.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Joe Friend & John Chapman, 1976

Trad 42m
21 Droop Street

Sustained arete. Step left into line then up and right at 10m.

Start: Start a few metres R of EW.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Nic Taylor, 1977

Trad 30m
18 Femroc

Short crack to a mantle, then easier wall. Given a star in some guides.

Start: Start 2m R of DS.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Natalie Green, 1979

Trad 20m
22 R IPD

Poor pro up wall with large scar at 10m.

Start: Start 2m R of F.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1984

Trad 20m
22 R Copper Seven

Wall with poor pro.

Start: Start 2m R of IPD.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Trad 20m
10 IUD

The diagonal line.

Start: Start 4m R of CS.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 20m
23 R Moving Right Along

Pumpy and scary. Wall to join flakes, then go 3m R and finish just L of D.

Start: Start 8m L of D.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Steve Lassche, 1980

Trad 14m
25 Dyslexia

Tiny steep crack. 'Best viewed as a B2 problem - the crux being a long dynamic off mean slopes to a small hold above a roof' - Carrigan.

Start: Start just L of the arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979

Trad 10m
26 King of the Jungle

Climb the tree, and lean over to place a #3RP. Reverse to the ground and climb the arete.

Start: Start at the arete just R of D.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad 10m
21 Maman! Maman!

Up to pin, step left then up headwall.

Start: Start: In the gully right of UIMB, on the left wall.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 10m
18 Don't Do This

At last - some truth in advertising! "Doing a new route with me is like sleeping with me. It can be fun at the time but you're not particularly proud of it afterwards"

Start: Start. Right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing 'Central Gully'.

FA: Nikki Sutherland & Deb Sweet, 1999

Trad 10m
16 Lets Do Lunch

See for a photo.

Start: Start at the front R arete of the block, R of DDT.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Louise Shepherd, Nikki Sutherland & Jon Basindale, 1999

Trad 12m
19 Up In My Bedroom

Up Righthand crack. Climb both to little roof. Step back into righthand crack to top.

Start: Start: As you walk off the top of 'Mari Buttress' you pass under some large boulders. This route takes the twin cracks just up from the small climb down.

FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999

Trad 10m
Cecilia Wall
6 Stepping Stones

Up right side of big block on slabby terrace. Step right at bulge.

FA: Keith Lockwood

Trad 18m
6 Skipping Girl

3m right of SS, Slab to weakness. Trend left up slabby rib and bulgy crack then juggy bulge

FA: Keith Lockwood

Trad 18m
12 Humpty Dumpty

Slab and bulge right of SG. Finish through centre of upper bulge

FA: Keith Lockwood

Trad 18m
8 Merry Go Round

Slab and bulge at right end of slabby terrace. Continue up yellow tinged corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood

Trad 25m
13 Slippery Dip

Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Brian Luxford

Trad 25m
7 Wool socks and galoshes

This is probably what Noddy has written up as Marbles in Argus, but graded 11!. Start 4m left of Pure and Simple, just right of a flake sticking up out of the ground. Head straight up. Good gear and climbing the whole way.

FA: Sarah Natali & Wendy Eden, 5 Dec 2016

Trad 25m
12 Pure and Simple

Supped to have a crack, but doesn't! 6m left of FOTR, 1m left of diagonal seam of Flying Foxes, behind a cherry ballart. Up wall, then vague juggy corner. Tricky down low. Was graded 8!

FA: Bruce & Rod Sutherland, 1984

Trad 30m
16 Flying Foxes

Diagonal seam that doesn't quite reach the ground left of FOTR. Bouldery start, diagonal then wall right of the corner of Pure and Simple.

FA: Keith Lockwood et al.

Trad 30m
22 All Day Sucker

Up the slab, going R and L a bit.

Start: Start just L of FotR.

FA: James Falla...with 5 on the blunt end!, 1985

Trad 20m
13 Fox on the Rocks

From the block step L and up frictional slab.

Start: Start 10m L of the detached pillar, under a large block which is 1m up a grey wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Law, 1976

Trad 20m
22 R Show Us Your Scabs

The slab, scary up high.

Start: Start just R of FotR.

FA: James Falla & Dave Mudie, 1986

Trad 20m
22 Bestiality

Small corner, past BR, to ledge, then continue.

Start: Start 2m R of SUYS.

FA: Dave Mudie & James Falla, 1986

Mixed 20m, 1
22 Fun and Games

The weakness to the break, traverse L through roof and over.

Start: Start just L of JC, off the top of the detached pillar.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

Trad 30m
18 Johns Corner

Climb the R-facing corner (or the much better steep jugs 3m R), then go R under lower roof. Over lip into short corner then ledge on L. Now traverse 8m L then up. (The DF goes straight up from the corner at 20).

Start: Start off the top of the detached pillar.

FA: Mike Law, Peter Watson (DF by Lincoln Shepherd & Anthony Ryan), 1990

Trad 30m
20 John's Corner Direct

From the corner of John's Corner, step left then head up wall past bolt. The best way to do the route.

Mixed 25m, 1
24 R Split Level

Up JC to it's top roof, then traverse R past old manky fixed gear, cams, and a runout, to join 'Cecilia'. It's worse to second than to lead.

Start: Start as for JC.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 30m
22 Wall of Horrors

Another traverse which needs a strong second.

Start: Start as for JC.

  1. 20m (22) Up JC for 6m then R along subtle traverse line, below SL, to flake. Step down R to pedestal on 'Cecilia'.

  2. 30m (22) R to flake, slightly up, then further R to join 'Frontispiece'.

FA: P1 Kevin Lindorff, 1976

FA: P2 Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 50m, 2
24 Guide for the Perplexed

Face past BR to roof with manky old fixed gear, and straight over roof past another BR.

Start: Start 3m R of JC.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd (originally traversing off - the finish was added in), 1990

Mixed 25m, 4
25 Buddhist Economics

Reachy start past 2 BRs over bulge, then trend R. Tackle the roof 2m L of C at a weakness.

Start: Start just L of C.

FA: Parrish Robbins & Mike Fox, 1990

Mixed 25m, 2
22 Cecilia

The crackline up the leaning yellow wall, joining the R facing corner at the roof. Don't trust the manky old aid bolts. 1 FH, 3 manky carrot bolts.

Start: Start off the detached pillar either by leaning across and climbing steeply up, or a committing, but significantly easier leap.

FA: Chris Baxter & Tim Hancock, 1970

FFA: Glenn Tempest, 1976

Mixed 25m, 4
26 Clap Hands

Crank up the line past PR to pedestal then roof, then L into shallow groove.

Start: Start 1.5m R of C.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Trad 25m
24 Please Tow the Lettuce to the Pines

Really very good. This is the logical way to address the space 5m R of Cecilia and if it were done first would be obvious sister-routes to Cecilia and Blind Ambition. Because of history, it has ended up as a link up of Intransience, Blind Ambition and Girls on Bikes.

Three distinct sections: the first is Intransience 's initial steep moves to a rest. Then moving L approximately 1.5m (where Intransience goes R) via nice moves through the tricky grey section and back R again to another rest. Finally directly up through the blank black section over the last RB.

There is an alternative L finish from the last big horizontal up an obvious flake between the described finish and Cecilia, however despite the climbing being easier, gear is non-existent.

FA: Christian Seger & Adam Syriatowicz, 1997

Mixed 27m, 1
23 Intransience

Committing traverse R gains ledge, then up R and up black wall.

Start: Start 10m R, and down from, 'Cecilia'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979

Trad 30m
25 Blind Ambition

Short crack past PR to ledge on I, and up I to jug. Now slightly L to join flake. L at break and then up.

Start: Start down R of I.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Geoff Little, 1982

Trad 30m
25 Girls on Bikes

Bulging crack then traverse L to ledge. Head L and up very faint groove over bulge into WoH. Now go diagonally L to finish up 'Cecilia'.

Start: Start 1.5m R of BA.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

Trad 40m
6 Space Corp Directive 703472A

Involves a rubber chicken.

The Red Dwarf is the pinnacle opposite the one that Cecilia starts from. Descend by using your partner as an anchor on the opposite side as you rap off.

On the side facing Cecilia, climb low angled, juggy crack on left.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Deb Sweet, 1999

Trad 10m
19 Change of Plans, Leg it!

Heading left around the pillar, up undercut corner on left side of Gelf icon then up face.

FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999

Trad 10m
20 Entering the Gelf Zone

On the East face (the one facing camp), left of the Gelf icon and corner of CoPLI is a line through a bulge. Be warned about rock and gear.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1996

Trad 10m
17 Nanobots

On the left side of the main face (that faces camp) and left of ETGZ. Up to roof. Through the aforementioned roof, stepping left and up arete.

FA: The Cat, Kryten, Lister & Kochanski, 1999

Trad 10m
8 Emohawk

Scramble down and around the corner left of ETGZ. Start left of right arete. Up and step left onto 'emohawk'. Then up slabby arete.

FA: Dwayne Dibbly & Ace Rimmer, 1996

Trad 10m
Skyline Walls
20 Piece of Shit

Traverse L past F and up the 'Intransience' face (see the 'Cecilia Wall' area).

Start: Start as for F.

FA: Jon Muir & solo, 1985

Trad 35m
19 Frontispiece

Take the crack on the L side of the gully, finishing up the 'Intransience' face.

Start: Start at the far L end of 'Skyline Walls'.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 30m
19 R Trademark

The steep flake and shallow groove just R of the gully, with sparse microwires.

Start: Start just R of F.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Trad 20m
23 Thin Air

Up the R-leaning flakes, then the face.

Start: Start 1m R of T.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Tattersall, 1982

Trad 20m
26 Fists of Fury

Bouldery, intense climbing on underclings left of 'Exodus' II. Start on left side of wall beneath right-trending crack weakness, or alternatively 1m right of this. Boulder up to fixed wire in roof, surmount hanging 'slab' and undercling rightwards into easier territory. Basically a 10 move boulder problem. Bring your biceps.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

Trad 20m
26 Exodus lI

Well chalked line (marked in yellow) left of obvious left-trending crack (Copyright). Climbs like an overhung limestone power route. Boulder into the line and onwards via obvious double-undercling crux (and bolt) to a horizontal break on the left. Take a breath, then easier face climbing to the top.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

Mixed 20m, 1
26 Mass Exodus

Exodus 2.5 with the obvious finish - up Copyright. A brilliant undertaking in its own right, but lacking the contrived headwall finish of the original.

Start: As for 'Exodus' 2.5.

Trad 20m
V5 O.C's R to L
26 Copyright Direct

Takes the line immediately right of 'Exodus' II (white line) and left of large crack weakness (Copyright). Boulder start to underclings (common theme here), then left to gain base of thin crack, and up. A more sustained version of 'Exodus' II.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1983

Trad 20m
22 Copyright

An exhausting undertaking up the major line on the wall (left-trending crack). Once graded 20! Steeply left to left leaning flake and poor rest. Step left then up.

FA: Colin Reece & Rod Young, 1979

Trad 20m
19 Bit Torrent

Start as for 'Copyright' and continue up crack direct to top half of 'Bootleg'.

FA: Wendy Eden, Anthony Pattison & Nic Kiraly, 2 Jan 2010

Trad 20m
19 Bootleg

Step across the gap and gain the large pockets. Climb past the 'thread' to jugs, then trend leftwards up the face to join the steep flake. Finish up this. Bittorrent is better.

Start: Start just R of C.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Rod Young & John Smoothy, 1979

Trad 20m
16 Boot Off

After the bouldery start of Bootleg, continue up wall right of that route. Some poor rock and gear.

Trad 20m
23 Revolution Rock

Up steep limestone-like wall past bolts, and R over bulge, then back left.

Start: Start down R of 'Copyright' in small gully.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983

Trad 18m
24 Revolution Rock Low Start

Boulder into Revolution Rock using evil pockets.

21 Rasputin

Located on the level down and right of the 'Exodus' ledge. Starts up poorly protected corner with hard climbing and poor rock to ledge. Continue up corner to roof, then exit right past bulge and then L to finish up arete.

FA: Rod Young & John Smoothy, 1979

Trad 30m
23 Clash

Starts just right of 'Rasputin'. Short problem past ancient fixed wire. Climb groove to the wire, then using a flake, up to roof and onwards to ledge. A good anchor can be found on the wall above this or there are chains at the top of Tres Hard.

FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn, 1983

Trad 10m
25 I'm a Mess

Climb the faint groove past bolt (FH) to gritty, grey roof. Traverse right across this on slopers to jugs, then up final headwall. Fiddly pro.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

Trad 15m
25 Tres Hard

Up faint groove to sharp pockets (FH), then stretch right into base of flared crack weakness and follow this to top. Powerful.

Start: Starts right of I'm A Mess.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 15m
25 Playing With A Different Sex

Starts 2m right of 'Tres Hard' and climbs seam/crack weakness to hanging slab. Join the dots up the slab, then up easier grey tower to finish. A high side runner in Tres Hard was the only gear in the first 3/4 of the route on the first ascent. Retrobolted with Roland's permission, 3 bolts plus trad gear.

FA: Roland Foster, 1982

Mixed 18m, 3
11 Freckled Duck

Vegetated groove 7m right of the start of 'Tres Hard'.

Trad 26m
24 Guns of Brixton

Further right along the ledge are two prominent chalked lines easily identified by their limestone-like appearance of large pockets and underclings. This route starts 1m left of the first line (On High) and climbs less travelled territory to shallow corner. Joins 'On High' near the top.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983

Trad 15m
23 On High

Well chalked bouldery start to large undercling, then up into groove, finishing above little roof. Well protected and classic climbing.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1979

Trad 20m
25 Non-Stop

Right of 'On High' are two large pockets on the lip of a roof. Up to pockets, then over bulge and up leftwards through more pockets to layback flake. Continue directly.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 20m
25 Cuddly Fat

Layback up vague corner then left across good holds to an obvious pocket. Reachy crux via a dubious hold, then left to the hollow jug and finish up crack weakness.

Start: Just right of Non Stop at slight corner.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Allan Wilkie, 1982

Trad 20m
19 Hassan

Starts 2m right of Non Stop (as for Cuddly Fat) at faint corner. Up this to jugs, right slightly, then cut left up red scoop and through final roof. Belay available in cave.

FA: Rod Young, Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1979

Trad 20m
14 Next Horizon

3m right of 'Hassan' is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above.

FA: Rod Young, 1979

Trad 20m
16 Cream Puff

Grotty corner.

Start: Start 2m R of NH.

FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd & Kazimierczak, 1990

Trad 8m
24 Slip, Slop, Slap

Boulder up past 2 bolts and some trad placements.

Start: Start 5m R of NH where the wall bulges considerably.

FA: Wayne & Gavin Jensen, 1990

Mixed 12m, 2
26 Blast Off

Stick clip 1st rusty bolt (place back up wire just above it) then boulder strenuously up through initial bulge onto face. Try not to look at the state of the 2nd bolt as you make reachy moves past it. Gain lip of roof and stretch out right into cleaner rock. Ignore the old fixed RP. Belay possible on block above.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Slip Slop Slap'.

FA: Wayne & Gavin Jensen, 1990

Mixed 16m, 2
24 Smithereens

3m right of 'Blast Off' and 5m left of black rock. Stick clip runner to start, then boulder into crack above.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1983

Trad 10m
22 Moins Hard

The next 3 routes are on the upper level, access by scrambling down gully from the top to fixed rope and plank.

Directly above Tres Hard is this slightly less hard crack.

FA: Wendy Eden & Jess McMahon, 20 Apr 2016

Trad 10m
25 Wastemaster

Located on small wall above Non Stop. Easily accessible from the summit. Climbs crimpy wall past two bolts and trad placements veering left near the top past a poor pocket.

FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1988

Mixed 10m, 2
26 Pull My Strings

Stick clip the bolt then up the wall.

Start: Start 7m R of W.

FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1988

Mixed 10m, 1
Garden Wall
18 Brown Thumb

Line left of Greenfingers past two bolts plus gear to anchor

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 7 Dec 2015

Mixed 15m, 2
15 Greenfingers

Climb the wall L of the easy crack (Eat Your Greens) by way of large scoops, then veering L after Brown Thumb's second bolt and up to anchor. Not heaps of gear (though Nod reckons it's "well protected"!). You can go direct which is not much harder but is quite runout.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Bruce Sutherland, 1984

Trad 15m
13 Blue Toes

Take Greenfingers to the bollard next to the scoop at 7m then step right and follow arete. Gear not great in top half.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 7 Dec 2015

Trad 15m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 118 routes.