Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 13th Apr 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
13 | Mad Dogs and Englishmen | 20m | |||||
Also a contender for worst route at arapiles, but saved by the cool feature of climbing a steep fat crack that opens at the back into a cave beneath the tottering block that is the top of the pitch. It's cool, but also terrifying that the whole block might come down on you.
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13 | Rover's Revenge | 28m | |||||
Possibly the worst route I have done at arapiles, and I have done some really bad routes here. Mossy, terrible rock, tottering boulders, vegetation, broken by ledges. It is nice belaying at the top of Campbell's kingdom though.
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Sat 1st May 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Christmas Walls | |||||||
15 | ★ Swingtime | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 30th Apr 2021 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Christmas Walls | |||||||
15 | ★ Swingtime | 18m | Average | ||||
The start is the business.
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15 | ★ The Atlantic Wall | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Good if you avoid the widowmakers.
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6 | Miss All Toes | 30m | Average | ||||
Improves up high.
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Fri 10th Apr 2020 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Cyclop's Eye Area | |||||||
10 | ★★ Radio Free Arapiles | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Long, continuous, good rock, lovely position high on the crag, no chance of crowds. What more is there to want in an easy route?
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Wed 8th Apr 2020 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom Sutherland Shire | |||||||
17 | ★ Arcadia | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
17 | ★ Dark Ages | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
17 | ★ Micah | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
16 | ★ Rose-coloured Glasses | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 8th Oct 2017 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Possum Rocks | |||||||
16 | The Mega Route | 8m | |||||
Short but good, steep jamming.
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15 | ★ Pygmy Possum | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Good old fashioned doesn't feel so easy kind of route. Some detatched rock up high.
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21 | ★ Ringtail | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Everything we climbed here had some interesting rock. This might have had the least. Tricky, pumpy climbing. Good fun was had.
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17 | Fairy Glider | 11m | Average | ||||
Reachy move down low was a bit raucus for a warm up. Not bad climbing, some exiting rock up high.
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Fri 16th Jun 2017 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
14 | ★ Cancer | 45m | |||||
Good fun, not really very mossy. In fact, Abby described it as "impeccable for an obscure route that hadn't been done in 40 years"!
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Wed 7th Jun 2017 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
20 | ★★ Vegemite | 50m | ★ Good | ||||
Old fashioned team ascent. I baulked at relying on the old piton, Simey bravely went worth a few more metres before bailing for me to get us up the pitch. The climbing is actually pretty good, the gear a bit fiddly but would be safe if the piton was replaced with a bolt. Second pitch didn't look worth bothering with and we headed off left to the anchors on CdL. Finishing up Promite also looks good.
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Mon 8th May 2017 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
22 | Butternut Snap - with Wendy Eden | 30m | |||||
20 | ★ Jam Jar - with Wendy Eden | 25m | |||||
9 | ★ Little Ripper - with Wendy Eden | 28m | |||||
22 | Butternut Snap | 30m | Average | ||||
I have decided to just add 4 grades to everything with Hugh Foxcroft on the first ascent. Desperate fat hands to offwidth bulge (which is actually quite good despite being desperate) then the upper crack is formed by stacked blocks and generally nerve racking.
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20 | ★ Jam Jar | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
With my new found Hugh Foxcroft proviso, this is actually a good route. Not 15m though unless you want to solo another 10m chimney from the ledge to the top.
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9 | ★ Little Ripper | 28m | ★ Good | ||||
Quite good if you start up the wall right of the obvious corner (which has crap rock), then sidle left into the upper crack.
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Thu 9th Jun 2016 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
23 | ★ Rain Aneurysm - with Wendy Eden | 35m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.
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23 | ★ Rain Aneurysm | 35m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Rain whilst I bolted, rain when we climbed it ... why do people say winter is the best season at Araps? THe second pitch of this route is fun steep climbing on good rock with good gear.
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Sun 5th Jun 2016 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
19 | ★ Silent Senile Running Foxes - with Wendy Eden | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.
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21 | ★★ Dilettante - with Wendy Eden | 50m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This is really good. The loose easy start detracts but the business is really interesting climbing on good rock - and now has a rap station on top. Hard for the grade, even once I'd cleaned out the fingerlocks!
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16 | Heart Full of Soul - with Wendy Eden, Kylie Jarrett, Kane Hendy | 60m | ★ Good | ||||
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.
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21 | ★★ Only Fools Eat Marmite | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
19 | ★ Silent Senile Running Foxes | 35m | |||||
Some good climbing taking into account the usual Campbell's Kingdom poorly trafficked rock. Bits of pumpy, tenous, funky and a little exciting.
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19 | Silent Running | 59m | |||||
Sat 4th Jun 2016 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
14 | Heart Full of Soul | 60m | |||||
The first pitch of this route was filthy and loose which somewhat detracted from the rest of the route but it seemed ok overall in hindsight. The original finish seemed rather pointless and we took the direct. Nice corner in second pitch and DF.
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20 | ★★ Dilettante | 50m | |||||
The second pitch of this route is awesome. Slightly burly, old school funky crack. Sadly the first and last pitch are scrappy. Would be 2 stars without that. I might put an anchor above the good climbing.
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Thu 2nd Jun 2016 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
21 | ★ Marmite - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
I led the first pitch and Wendy led the second. I think we did the direct finish. Although my head is terrible for leading atm and I got the wobbles (despite good gear) I was genuinely baffled by the crux of the first pitch and pulled through it. Great effort by Andrew seconding it clean. It's worth a star but there are a number of loose feeling blocks and a huge wedge has fallen out of the initial corner. Thought both pitches felt like 21.
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18 | ★ Perpetual Standstill - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 40m | ★ Good | ||||
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!
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13 | ★ Sundowner - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
The start's quite good, then the rock quality falls away a bit. Take a few big cams if you want to climb the LH corner, fortunately the RH corner has good normal sized gear and ok climbing.
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22 | ★ Cream Between - with Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.
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Wed 1st Jun 2016 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
18 | ★ Perpetual Standstill | 40m | ★ Good | ||||
20 | ★ Marmite | 30m | |||||
At least we did the first pitch of Marmite ... On reviewing the description, maybe we did the DF. Maybe we did a new route. All 3 of us failed to work out what the "obvious direct finish" was. What we did was good climbing marred by sufficient dodgy rock to make it, um, exhilarating.
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13 | ★ Sundowner | 30m | |||||
After Douglas tore out a shrub or 2, this was a nice clean line on good rock. Might be a little tricky for 13, but good climbing
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18 | ★ Perpetual Standstill | 40m | |||||
This was going to be a mega classic straightening up a wandery old route. Well, it does go in a lovely straight line but sadly passes some exciting hollow rock. I didn't expect the cool arete finish - funky moves in a great position, gear might leave a little to be desired though.
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20 | ★ Marmite - with Douglas Hockly, Wendy Eden | 30m | |||||
Or at least it might be Marmite...
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13 | ★ Sundowner - with Douglas Hockly, Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 31st May 2016 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
18 | ★ Plumber's crack | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Quite fun flared slippery jams to start. Lou tells me my perpsective is warped. A bit goey then easier but still ok climbing to top.
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16 | Zorba | 33m | Average | ||||
Climbing is quite good but it is disconcerting to see through the crack in the roof. Not sure how connected it is, but it didn't seem to be going anywhere.
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18 | ★ Perpetual Motion | 48m | |||||
The route wanders a lot, but has potential to be really quite good. Going back tomorrow to try a more direct version. And it's the same height as the other routes on the wall. Not sure where the enthusiastic 48m came from. Lou led as one pitch.
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Sun 15th May 2016 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
16 20 | ★ Cream Between | 30m | |||||
good climbing in the first half, but 16? Douglas was ready to give it 22 on second. Maybe we'll try 20 and see if anyone ever does it.
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19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion | 43m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really awesome route. Sort of like Frog climbing on Arapiles rock with a splash of limestone thrown in.
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19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion - with Wendy Eden | 43m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome in the first half, the rest is much easier and some loose rock but wow the first half is amazing. Like a harder version of Toccata, and now has a rap station.
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Sun 11th May 2014 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
16 | ★ Deep Throat - with Norm, Maureen | 15m | |||||
Got a bit psyched by the loose blocks.
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16 | Zorba - with Norm, Maureen | 33m | |||||
Fairly casual til I realised that the roof is just a huge detached block. And then the large flake on the left side of the upper groove is just another almost totally detached thing. Fun and games.
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Thu 6th Oct 2011 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
14 | Heart Full of Soul | 60m | Average | ||||
15 | Snorkler | 62m | Average | ||||
11 | ★★ Beginners' Luck | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 27th Nov 2010 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
19 | Piss de Resistance | 15m | Average | ||||
Tough and fingery for several metres.
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16 | Piss | 15m | Don't Bother | ||||
Started as a lead solo, but there was rain, lichen, loose blocks, I was on my own...
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18 | ★ Kickapoo Joy Juice | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Would be in the book if it were elsewhere.
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17 | Andrew's | 15m | Average | ||||
One tricky move.
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Sat 24th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
18 | FA ★ Plumber's crack | 30m | |||||
obvious crack 2m L of Zorba
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15 | Snorkler | 62m | Average | ||||
1st pitch=don't bother, 2nd pitch=good, overall=average
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Mon 16th Feb 1998 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
21 | ★★ Caught in a Crossfire | 15m | |||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion | 43m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
21 21 R | ★ Barleycorn | 15m | |||||
21 | FA ★★ Only Fools Eat Marmite | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The obvious direct finish. You'd have to be a fool not to do it.
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Sun 1st Feb 1998 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
20 | ★ Marmite | 30m | |||||
Mon 6th Nov 1995 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
21 | ★★ Caught in a Crossfire | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Would be popular if it were close to camp
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1977 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
9 | Carthaginian | 50m | Average | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles | |||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
14 | Heart Full of Soul | 60m | |||||
14 | Thistledown | 35m | |||||
14 | Heart Full of Soul | 60m | |||||
19 | ★ Hair of the Dog | 15m | |||||
15 | Snorkler | 62m | |||||
20 | ★★ Vegemite | 50m | |||||
21 | ★★ Caught in a Crossfire | 15m | |||||
17 | Andrew's | 15m | |||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion | 43m | |||||
18 | ★ Kickapoo Joy Juice | 15m | |||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion | 43m | |||||
17 | ★ True Grit | 20m | |||||
17 | ★ Swill | 15m | |||||
14 | ★ Cancer | 45m | |||||
15 | Snorkler | 62m | ★ Good | ||||
it's a bit loose and mossy in places,but so is most of Campbells. Still worth doing, striking line
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19 | ★ Hair of the Dog | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
like everything on this wall, mossy towards the top, there's also an unavoidable floating column mid climb
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13 | ★ The Seven Year Itch | 45m | |||||
20 | ★★ Vegemite | 50m | |||||
16 | Piss | 15m | |||||
20 | ★★ Vegemite | 50m | |||||
12 | Goose Neck | 45m | |||||
20 | Marmalade | 18m | |||||
14 | ★ Cancer | 45m | |||||
20 | ★ Marmite | 30m | |||||
20 | Marmalade | 18m | |||||
15 | Snorkler | 62m | |||||
21 | FA ★ Barleycorn | 15m | |||||
21 | ★★ Caught in a Crossfire | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
it's ok, but I prefered other routes on this wall
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18 | ★ Perpetual Motion | 48m | |||||
19 | ★ Hair of the Dog | 15m | |||||
17 | ★ True Grit | 20m | |||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion | 43m | |||||
17 | Cold Comfort | 20m |