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Description:© (kieranl)

Superb, intricate and sustained climbing. Originally done as two pitches but best done in a single pitch.

Start: Start the R-facing corner 2 metres right of "Grand Central".

From the ledge, delicately move over bulge. Clip bolt and zoom through a peg (natural pros available) to an easier ground. Stay R of the crack to avoid loose rock.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 25 Jun 1978


Located in Upper Gully approx:
Lat/Long: -36.752767,141.838547

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

23 Community registered grade
23 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
23 RockGUIDE: Victoria
23 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
23 ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 77%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped crux sustained desperate good great beautiful fun awesome tricky stout rest reachy jugs technical

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