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Description:© (jgoding)

Wonderful sustained and steep. A megaclassic.

Start: Start about 10m right of 'Blue Hawaii' and 2m left of 'Yesterday'.

Follow an inverted staircase flake into a hanging gully. Step R and continue pass two FHs along the weakness to the overlap (peg). Crank through the steeper section on jugs to the double ring bolt anchor.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Glenn Tempest, Eddy Ozols (starting from the hanging gully, stemming up L of the bolt). Wayne Jensen added the direct start & bolted arete section while doing Maniacal (24)., 1989

Location:  

Located in Upper Gully approx:
Lat/Long: -36.752767,141.838547

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

23 Community registered grade
22 * A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
23 ** ** ACA Route Register
23 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
23 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 77%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

stuffed fun cool rad nice fabulous good great enjoyable tricky committing steep bad rest roof jugs

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