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Description

Shaded for most of the day, and sometimes used by SES and Army for abseiling practice. Please don't remove moss/lichen.

Approach

Follow the walking track for 60m and turn off to the R. Walk downhill for about 50m and then a bit to the L until you're in front of a large orange boulder. This is the top of Valley Wall.

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts at the main corner of the left-hand end of the cliff and about 50m left of The Lighthouse Of Alexandria.

  1. 20m. The corner to a cave behind some large blocks.

  2. 20m. The crack to the ledge. Instead of scrambling off, continue to the top via the steep crack that starts on the little ledge above.

Set by Peter Cunningham & Iain Sedgman, 1979

The obvious wide chimney that has a zig in it.

FA: A team including C. Trafford, 1976

Start off the big block at the base of the chimney. Ordinary gear leads to a FH and then a ledge (another FH). Continue up the left arete passing 3 FHs to the top.

FA: Jason Owen & John Lewis

To the R of On The Edge is a beautiful clean finger crack. Climb this to the ledge and then boldly mount the face above.

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger

Forty metres right of the left-hand end of the cliff at a leftward diagonal line becoming a flake/chimney.

  1. 35m. Move left on the boulder, pull onto the ledge and up leftward ramp to the flake/chimney.

  2. 20m. Scramble to the top.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Phillip Armstrong, 1979

Activity

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