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This is the closest area to the carpark, and the routes are some of the longest, however it does suffer a little from loose rock.

Do not climb in this area between June and December as the resident Peregrine Falcon breeds here during this period.


Follow the walking track for 60m and turn off to the R. Walk downhill for about 50m and then head to the R. This will put you at the top of the cliff.

Descent notes

Walk down to the south or abseil down Valley Wall and walk to the bottom of this wall.


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Grade Route

The first route as you walk down. Climb the face left of the arete to the horizontal crack. Swing right on the face above the slab and up to the top. Has 5 BRs or so, take a few small cams as well.

FA: Matt Roper & Robert Cowan

Start as for Falcon's Lair, move left past the two scoops then up the face past 3 BRs to join Falcon's Lair.

FA: Robert Cowan, John Schwerdfeger & Matt Roper

Up centre of the face to diagonal crack. Pull through then up face past 5 BRs.

FA: Robert Cowan, John Schwerdfeger & Matt Roper

Right side of face. Pull past BR to thin ledge, traverse right and over small roof. Climb the arete past 4 BRs.

FA: Robert Cowan, John Schwerdfeger & Matt Roper


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