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Routes are described right to left. Located within Belair National Park thus follow the usual eco-friendly regulations of the national parks. Be mindful when setting up top-ropes as the ropes cross popular walking/cycling track at top of cliff.

Now known as the highball capital of Adelaide but still used for both trad and top rope.

© (boardlord)


Shortest access is from Sheaoak Road, either parking at former site of Gate 11 and carefully climb the now-fence (GPS: -35.00574, 138.66956), or a slightly longer walk from one of the neighboring gates

© (boardlord)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

7m V2. Up to pocket break, then right to crimper line (match this), and to RH gaston. Finish directly. Not a winter route! Bad landing.

Start: Start left of cave at horizontal break.

Climbs the short crimpy wall right of the cave starting at a big jug. Fingery climbing leads to a ledge, then more easily to the top. Established ground-up solo. Be careful of the rock.

FA: 2007

Takes a steep but juggy start about 5m left of Trev - leading to the obvious hanging slab. Gain the good hold at base of slab and stretch up left for a sidepull. Mantle, then finish diagonally right up slab to top out. Established as a ground-up onsight solo.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2006

Starts on the LH end of a roof and climbs above this via an obvious layback weakness (right of the hanging slab of C & P)

Can be started from the cave left of Birdy, however this is often wet. Standard start is from the large jug beneath Trev, or alternatively 3m left of this. Traverse right past all your old favourites keeping relatively low through the underclings of Kev, and continuing into the start of the grade 13 crack. Gain the jug in Snaggle Puss right of this, and drop down to finish at a jug just prior to the corner. The continuation across the corner has been recorded as a separate route given the change in difficulty.

Extends The Belair Traverse by continuing across the undercut corner on the right side of the crag. The grade takes into account not using the obvious shelf (ground) for your feet, and swinging your feet over to the right across the scoop. Finish at the base of The Shrinker, or for full value, continue up it!

The easy weakness left of Nev past the good pocket, finishing up and left.

Used to be a very overgraded 20...

A true boulder problem leading to an easy finish. From underclings, latch the sloper (easier if you go with your left) - then up to a large undercling and onwards. RH (on sloper) version is more committing at about V2.

The attractive rampline on orange rock - leading to a vegetated crack just above a good handjam.

Route just left of Disjointed Illusion crack via jugs then crimps and a big move.

FA: Climb a meter or so left of disjointed - onto the slopy ledge & crimps then big open moves for about four or so moves then sketchy topout

The wide crack.

One of the best lines here - and quite a boulder problem (though gear may be able to be arranged in the undercling). A direct line right of the crack, heading past the good finish jug of 'Pathetic Earthlings...' - straight up the face to the obvious large undercling (crux). Push into it and reach for the big break above.

A slightly weird experience. Climb up the body-engulfing trench leading into the roof (behind the 'Nati Beast' launch boulder) - then make a committing series of moves out toward the sunlight (and onto the face). Finish up the obvious flakeline.

The biggest jump move in Adelaide. Lowest crimper rail below A Trick of the Tail - double-handed to the big jug bypassing polished jug of Snagglepuss. A 7'2" dyno.

FA: James Falconer, 2000

Jump start off the boulder and climbs the face direct - left of the Nati Beast arete - to join A Trick of the Tail. Established as a toprope, later soloed.

FA: Ross/Hamish Meffin (TR)

A hidden gem, well worth the trip! Jump start off the boulder to jug on the right, then a series of acrobatic moves gain the right side of the arete, crossing back to the left side approximately 6m up. Committing to say the least. Established as a toprope by the Meffin brothers, but later soloed by Steve Kelly (with no mats!). Has now seen a ground up solo, courtesy of Trent Searcy.

FA: Ross/Hamish Meffin TR

The body-engulfing trench left of 'The Shrinker'. Climb/chimney up to the roof - then go out towards the light. Finish as for 'The Shrinker'.

The good looking line on the righthand end of the cliff, with a steep start on good holds, then finishing more delicately just right of the corner.

The following 9 problems are on the little wall 60m further along the escarpment. This one starts on the left hand side matching a big sloper. Getting into position with your feet is half the battle. From the sloper, make a dynamic move up to another sloper (crux), then further slopers to better holds. An eliminate.

Would've beeen done before - a userfriendly version of The Transformer. From its start, grab the layback jug up L and continue.

FA: Paul Badenoch

Start as for Transformer, reach right to large layaway then LH up for very poor pinch. RH to top. Unlikely move.

Start LH on the Transformer start hold, RH on the Mr Incredible start hold. Dyno 6ft to the top (leading LH). A completely different proposition to The Transformer and slightly easier.

A 6 foot dyno. One of the best at its grade.

Start: Obvious starting jug (generally well chalked) in middle of wall - starting matched, then jump for the top.

Double hand dyno from the start of 'The Transformer' to the 'Mr Incredible' finishing hold up and right.

Start: As for Transformer.

Double-hand 4'9 dyno to 3-quarter height down sloping jug. RH sloper in the break, LH on more positive flat section. Good left footer. Going one handed is about V1.

Start: Right of 'The Transformer' jug matched on the horizontal just left of corner.

Stand start with hands matched on obvious chalked jug (start hold of 'Mr Incredible'). Follow crack and top out.

Start: Right of crack right of 'Mr Incredible'. Grab two good sized flat crimps, place very high feet and dyno for the top. A 5'8 dyno.

Start: Low flat crimp line down and right of the start to the previous problem. Gaston small seam, reach for very small 2-finger crimp LH, and small slopey crimp up and right. Then jug.

Either way, taking the line of least resistance (but not touching the top).

FA: Paul Badenoch, 23 Nov 2009


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