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Description

If you thought the 'Main Cliff' routes were ok then this section is definitely also worth a visit.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Ben Cairn

[As at 12 March 2018 Ben Cairn Road closed both ends due to landslip. Practically impossible to access].

From Melbourne take the Maroondah Highway to Healesville. Go through town, past the bridge, turn right at Don Rd and go 9.8km to a junction. Keep driving about 8km and the road becomes dirt. You pass a sign stating "Ben Cairn 1040m". Walk 5 minutes up the foot track to gain access to the crag.

Note: Both ends of Ben Cairn Road gated in winter. https://traffic.vicroads.vic.gov.au/ for further access information.

Approach

This might more accurately be described as the Left part of the cliff, because if you walk south along the top of the 'Main Cliff' you're above 'Pakenham Upper'. Anyway, the best access is probably to abseil in from the trees at the base of the scramble down just L of Raspberry Ripple. You can fairly quickly walk down either end of this section (at the north end start your descent at the base of Skating Away), but it's quite scrubby and surprisingly uneven underfoot.

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A slippery awkward groove to a tough exit.

Start: Start at the far left (south) end of the lower cliff.

FA: Steve Toal & Mark Buchanan, 2000

The line with a gross start, then continue past a BR and some fixed tat which, if it's even there, will definitely be shite. (happy if another bolts goes in this-mikl law)

Start: Start 3m R of TA.

FA: Mike Law & Mike Collie, 1983

Kept clean by traffic, and good climbing. The obvious thing would be to squeeze a new route next to this and call it Pakenham In. (happy if another bolts goes in this-mikl law)

Start: Start 5m R of PH at the lowest part of the slab.

FA: Mike Law & Roy Smith, 1983

Heave onto slab then past 2 bolts. Belay from 2 fixed hangers

Start: Start 5m up R from PU on mossy ledges.

FA: Joy Fletcher, Adrian Cooper & Mike Law, 1982

The line with nice moves into the corner crack.

Start: R of MBC there's a gully: start just R of this.

FA: Mark Grundy, 2000

Kept clean by traffic, no doubt because it has the only orthodox holds on the entire crag!

Start: Start 3m R of BCJ.

FA: Mark Buchanan & Steve Toal, 2000

If you lead it you may as well leave the rope on the ground. But it is certainly a worthwhile toprope problem, and quite clean.

Start: Start 2m R of FatW.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1983

Kept clean by traffic, and worth doing.

Start: Start immediately R of EA.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Glenn Tempest, 1977

Reclaimed by moss.

Start: Start as for F.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Stella Papadooulos, 1982

Activity

Check out what is happening in Lower Cliff.