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Summary

You're in the land before time.....A crack climbers paradise!

Description

A granite outcrop in the middle of Black Hill far enough from the popular climbing areas, paths and roads to make you think that you and the rock are the only things that exist.

Access issues

Watch out for rogue thistles (They are super sharp) and dangerous wildlife (read: a giant brown snake that hangs about near Questionable Paternity). The grass is long and full of terrors....

Approach

Walk in from the south entrance. Walk up the path and turn right at the T-intersection, heading north. Walk past two small ponds (on your right) and then past a truck sized boulder (also on your right). Turn left at the first big dead tree (after the boulder) and walk through the scrub and up the hill. You're now in dinosaur country......

Ethic

Do not retrobolt. Do not bolt anything with cracks. Most obvious lines have been climbed.

History

View historical timeline

Area largely climbed by Steven Wilson. Mark Rewi has put up a number of bolted slab routes. Chris Ferre and Philly Briglia have been putting a large amount of time in on the big offwidths in 2017 and 2018.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Approximately 10 meters left (walk down and around corner) of Questionable Paternity.

Climb the 8 metre hand crack to a ledge, and then up an offwidth crack which gets smaller and smaller the further you go up.

Can be done in two pitches.

The north-facing, left-leaning offwidth. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Never Tell Me The Odds. An amazing climb that gradually fades to fist, then to hands, then fingers but doesn't let up! Anchors installed for safety March 2018.

Named after Chris' dog, Han Solo. The huge, overhanging offwidth facing east when you enter the area.

Difficulty will change depending on size of hands/legs/feet etc.

Watch out for the loose(ish) victory jug on the very top left.

FA: Chris Ferre, Feb 2018

This is a closed project for Philly Briglia as of January 2018. Red tagged.

The steep overhanging offwidth at the top of the hill, approx 30 meters behind Never Tell Me The Odds.

This has been climbed out to the lip on two BD 6's, but Philly is waiting for a Valley Giant 9 to arrive before attempting the whole route safely.

FA: Closed Project, Jan 2018

Activity

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