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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Upper Teir 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing
Description:

8-10m high cliff about 200m long

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach:

20mins approach

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 David - project 1

Left side of small upper ledge, up past small flake over bulge to short slab and anchors.

SportProject 8m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Rod Project 1

Right side of small upper ledge tending right to shared anchors

SportProject 10m, 4
3 Rod Project 3

Back on main track, up slab past and over flake to face and up to shared anchors.

SportProject 12m, 4
4 Mr Flexible

Up middle of short steep wall to ledge and anchors

FFA: Ian reynolds, 20 Mar

18 Sport 7m, 2
5 Rod Project 2

Up right side of short steep wall to ledge and anchors

SportProject 7m, 3
6 Utter defeat

Up left side of slab

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 18 Mar

16 Sport 8m, 3
7 Look to Windward

Up middle of slab to shared anchors

FFA: rod, 11 Mar

16 Sport 8m, 4
8 Rod Cant Reach

Up right of slab to tending left at last bolt to shared anchors, drop a grade if your tall.

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 11 Mar

17 Sport 8m, 3

Next climbs 10m further along.....

9 Kev - project 1

Short face to slab and corner, left to anchors

SportProject 8m, 2
10 Ian project 2

Up orange streak past faint corner left to anchors

SportProject 8m, 2
11 Rod - project 4

Up short slab, past big ledge and up slab to anchors

SportProject 13m, 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
16 Look to Windward Sport 8m, 4
Utter defeat Sport 8m, 3
17 Rod Cant Reach Sport 8m, 3
18 Mr Flexible Sport 7m, 2
? David - project 1 SportProject 8m, 2
Ian project 2 SportProject 8m, 2
Kev - project 1 SportProject 8m, 2
Rod - project 4 SportProject 13m, 4
Rod Project 1 SportProject 10m, 4
Rod Project 2 SportProject 7m, 3
Rod Project 3 SportProject 12m, 4