Routes as sport in Atlantis

Right of the slab routes. Very hard start for 19.

The easiest route at Atlantis - about 3 grades easier than the "19". Pretty fun despite appearances. Left of the slab routes - with a couple of sinker pockets to start then a juggy flake and wall.

Righthand route off the ledge. Belay off bolts to the left. Rebolted 2019

Great rock and cool roof move - one of the best here. Unlike most routes off this ledge, this one has a nice pleasant juggy start.

Bouldery start

The most popular route at Atlantis. Starts at far right end of fixed ropes. Very featured rock reminiscent of Logan Brae.

Stick-clip the high first bolt. Boulder through opening sequence then head out right and up the nice water washed rock.

1st route on the ledge. Above and right of fixed rope. Rebolted July 2021

Steep start on jugs then a bit of an odd section weaving left up a shield, then back right (mantle!). Now finishes direct to new seperate lower-off anchors (it originally traversed way off right into Gregs Route). Rebolted 2021.

Shared start with Rooky of the Year then left line of bolts. Anchors on slab kill your rope lowering off.

Good steep fun with a low crux. Belay off low first bolt, and stick clip 2nd bolt. At 4th bolt do a hard traverse right along break then up (Don't get suckered going straight up to razor jugs). Bolts are in good condition.

Access route to the mini routes above the big cave. Climb Hillbilly (24) then traverse right along break (grade 18) to small ledge.

The line straight up the middle of the overhanging amphitheater. A sustained pumper. Rebolted July 2021

Shares start with Forever Midnight Above small boulder to the left of the access point. Traverses left.

Extension is open for takers.

Batman start. A few metres to the right 'She Male'. Near the right side of the cave.

Steepness Plus. As for He Man but straight out through the roof. Great climbing through very steep terrain.

Steepness. Good fun pumper. Start on the far left side of the cave just next to the rungs. Traverse to arete and up. Rebolted July 2021.

The 1st route on the high ledge - immediately above the end of the access rungs. Easiest way to do this route is to belay down at ground level - and lead the rungs then continue up the route. Two long sling down low required to reduce ropedrag. Finishes at same anchors as He Man. The route can be cleaned on lower off but the final swing is epic! Rebolted 2019

Warning - Bolts are in poor condition on this route.

Nice long pumper out the far right end of the belay ledge. Shares lower-off with Hysteresis. Rebolted 2018.

Belay on the larger ledge to the left. Rebolted 2017?

Good long route on mostly big holds. Crux is somewhat reachy! Rebolted 2019.

A quality steep route with an intense opening salvo and an airy bulgy roof above. This is the left route off the shared start. Rebolted 2018.

Long steep pumper on aesthetic water-washed rock at the far left of the crag. Overhangs more than 5m, so lowering off requires a lasso from the belayer to retrieve the climber!

Access either from the belay on the main lefthand ledge (by a roped traverse crawling along the ledge to the belay), or by abseiling in from the top.

To find the top abseil, during the Atlantis approach, as the descent steepens near the end (just before the main atlantis cliff appears on the right), spot the major cairn made of 50 small-rocks to your right, and follow the terrace below it to the right for about 50m, looking for a cairn near the cliff edge which makes the top of the route. Rap off trees down to single-bolt above the route, and over the lip to the route itself. Bring at least a 50m rope.

Rebolted 2019, resolving the "death start" issues via a variant start.